Question about Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Silverado Coolant not getting hot enough?

My Silverado V6 has the check engine light come on. The scan tool says that the coolant isn't getting hot enough. I changed the coolant temp sensor, light went off. I also changed out alot of the coolant, as they said it could be caused by the breakdown of glycol in the coolant. I replaced it with DexCool, just like the factory. Light just came back on, scans the same. The temp guage doesn't go above 185, even though 210 seems to be the norm. What else is there? Thermostat stuck?

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It has to be either a broken gauge, faulty wiring, or poor coolant flow (although in the summer i doubt the coolant is staying 'too cold' in reality).
First, we will check the temp sensor 1. Pull the temp sensor out and let it hang. 2. Boil water -- it will be at 212* at its boiling point but cooling rapidly, so speed is key. Or better yet, if you have a thermometer and vegetable oil and steady hands, heat that up to 250* 3. Take the water or oil to the sensor and pop the sensor in it. Watch the gauge to see if it reads accurately (should show around 200 if you moved quickly with the water, oil will still be ~240ish and will work better, but is more dangerous). If the gauge is off, then we've found the problem. For better measure, if you have a thermometer you can place that next to the temp sensor to compare results.
if the temp reading is too low (lower than what your thermometer reads), it is also possible that you have a short in the wiring or simply corroded wires connected to it, adding resistance to the wire which would result in a lower reading. (people sometimes use this to their advantage with the air temp sensor -- add a 100ohm or so resistor in-line with the sensor to trick the cpu into thinking the temp is colder, prompting it to adjust the air/gas mix and yielding a couple hp increase, although damaging to your system.)
the more i think about it, the more a faulty wiring feels like it could be the problem. if the temperature is reading accurately, i'd take a serious look at the flow of coolant through the system. if it isn't heating up then it must not be contacting enough heat. there may be blockage somewhere; crimped hose or maybe just mystery gunk.
hopefully this helps, if anything it's a start. most of the time it seems like solutions are found unexpectedly when testing completely different things. good luck!

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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Yes...thermostat stuck open...coolant not retained in the engine long enough to come to temp before flowing out to radiator. insure proper rated thermostat goes back in >>>195F

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado and the warning lights keep coming on telling me AC not working/engine hot ,, ??


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My 2003 chevy truck 1500 with a v6 runs good 15miles and after that it starts missing and like something holding it back


IF the "check engine" or "service engine soon" light is on. You can take it to most any auto parts store to get the codes read.

Better yet would be to find someone with an actual scanning tool to see what all of the sensors are reading.

IF there is no check engine or service engine soon light on then it could be quite a few different things wrong.

A plugged catalytic converter is a possibility. Another item that i ran across on 3 different vehicles within a day was a bad coolant temperature sensor. All 3 vehicles ran fine when 1st started, but then slowly started to "load up" or run rich. REAL rich.

Turned out on all 3 vehicles there was NO check engine/service engine soon light but after hooking up the scanning tool all 3 showed the coolant temp sensor was reading -40°!!

Yup, the computer was being told the engine was at 40 BELOW zero. The computer took that info and adjusted the fuel/air mixture and timing to help the engine warm up.

While the engine warmed up, the sensor kept saying it was 40 below and made the engine run rich.

This MAY be the problem, but without a scan tool it's hard to say.

Hope this helps.

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Your coolant level could be low and hot coolant from the engine can only reach the heater core to warm the air inside the car when the engine is at higher rpm's. Check or have your coolant level checked first before continuing to diagnose this concern. Second, I would check the operation of the thermostat. Best done with a scan tool observing the "ECT" sensor while driving. About the only thing you can do without a scan tool is check the level. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR OR RESAVOIR TANK WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT ok? you could get burned very badly.

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I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING FROM ENGINE HEAD CHECK PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR REPLACEMENT, THERMASTAT REPLACEMENT, WATERPUMP REPLACEMENT. THE COOLING FANS KICK IN, AND THE CAR STILL RUNS HOT ...WHAT'S NEXT?


ok , but no engine stated. which one>??
hot = lying dash gauge or real hand held pyro IR gun? a $20 tool.
did the scan tool ECT reading show too hot, Yes/no.

no new cap, really?
is the cam timed right?
is the spark timed right.?
is the ECU stuck in limphome mode? (huge heat to cylinder walls)
thermostat not upside down.
or thermostat not with bleed hole up hill trapping air below
making it lie and the dash gauge lie too, (the gauge can not measure air, period)

id not do squat with no IR gun. not me. its super accurate too.
and dirt cheap and saves burned hands,
and finds clogged rad tubes saving useless $250 new rad.
one tool. use it. and win.


i this this dang I6 engine, that loves to trap air?
had 3,now, over 500k miles on them. 1988 to present.
and never overheated but once, pin hole in heater core hose
ran bypass and drove home.
i have a 08 wrangler 6sp, 3.8L v6 , nice rig. easy to fix too.

there are 2 parts. (3 really)
engine make too much heat, (limphome or timed wrong)
air in system.
cooling system.

the rad pressure test pass and the green/blue test passes

no water in engine oil
no oil or carbon seen in the engine coolant , all places look.

how hot, ??????
200f
260F
280F"?
numbers matter, in all ofscience. they talk to you.
at what exact temp did the fans, kick in,?
the FSM shows you this, and how to do that. how to make sure the
fans kick in happen, RIGHT. some are 2 staged with A/C.
not just kick. (when)

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The flashing light means there is a problem with the engine serious enough to damage the catalytic converter. You should get the computer scanned for trouble codes.
If there are no external coolant leaks, the engine is probably burning the coolant thru the cylinders and out the tail pipe. Which could also be causing the flashing light.

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2 Answers

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