Question about 2002 Ford Taurus

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Alternator no charge changed alt with a rebuilt same problem no charge instrument cluster wont ground the voltage regulator

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Check the fuse on the side of the engine fuse box 125amp will not allow the alt to charge

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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How do i fix my voltage regulator 98 dodge ram 5.2 new battery new pcm?


Voltage regulator is internal to the Alternator. You have to replace the Alternator.

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Why doesn't it charge at idle?


It depends if the system is RVC/regulated voltage control. If so, there are about six modes of operation. One is, "fuel economy mode". In that mode, the targeted generator out-put is 13 volts and battery state of charge is greater than 80%. There are two other conditions.
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I am still fighting an intermittent charging problem on a 1990 GM K1500. It will charge fine then discharge. Doesn't make any difference if in town or on the highway. I've tried three alternators,...


Sounds to me you have high resistance problem , Main power feed to the alternator . Check the power junction block behind the brake booster on the fire wall . There is nothing in the instrument cluster to regulate voltage .B+ voltage to battery symbol when key is on , then when it starts voltage from voltage regulator inside alternator goes back on that circuit shutting off the light . Voltage on both sides of the light cancel's each other out . Yes, i would look for a burnt connector . at the junction block . Do a voltage drop test while the vehicle is running . Voltage Drop Testing the Charging System

Mar 06, 2017 | 1990 GMC Sierra

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99 aurora, change alt 2 months ago now its over charging 16.7


That's fine this happens i have gotten from 30 minutes to a week out of rebuilt alternators up to 10 years 2 months ago you should have warranty on it contact supplier.

Jan 05, 2011 | 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

Charge light was on and alternator was overcharging. had alt. rebuilt and new voltage reguator, not charging now. only getting 2 to 3 volts are the charge fuse beside battery. new voltage reg is electronic...


There is a fuse under the dash that is the same one that operates the fuel gauge, if it blows the alternator wont charge. If the fuses are good I would take the alternator off and get it tested. Hopefully the rebuilder will warranty it. I would also make sure the new regulator is compatible with the old type regulator system. Most large auto parts stores can test alternators, and they normally do it free.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1984 Toyota Pickup Deluxe

1 Answer

Good alt. will not charge good battery


the regulator should be in the alternator,is it a rebuilt one,if so you could have gotten a bum one, i'v had that happen to me three times in a row till i finaly got a good one, also make shure the ground wier is tite and none of the wiers are frayed or broken

Dec 20, 2009 | 1991 Chrysler New Yorker

1 Answer

2000 astro van Battery and alternater are both new and checked out to be in working order. I am only getting 12 volts charging with the motor running should be 14 to 15 volts. In desperate need of ideas of...


You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery. Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt.. Undertake these tests and if you have any questions, email me here: swoop@live.com.au
Dave.

Dec 15, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Astro

4 Answers

Instrument panel went dead


Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Aug 19, 2009 | 2003 Ford Excursion

1 Answer

WONT START ONLY WITH CHARGE


It is either going to be a wiring problem bettween the voltage regulator and the battery or the car has what is called. Voltage regulator in electronics. In this case the regulator is in the computer and not the alternator. Changing the alternator will have no effect if this is the case.Many cars have this in the computer. You need a manual to find this out for sure.

Nov 28, 2008 | 2000 Hyundai Sonata

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