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why ignore the CEL??????
you cross over the spark wires. lost firing order.
its not PVC but is due.
sure, lost spark, lost spark time, crossed wire.
if spark is good try test fuel
clean the EGR, if it sticks open car will never idle fast.
and will stall.
clean the ISC do the ECU can in fact now control idle.
you are are on track, most here are not.
you did a tune up, that is good , and is first.
bad fuel, car parked for year, dead?
now the 1 question, (after it runs)
can your happy right off save the stall
only this counts..... 1st....
check firing order now that wires are scrambled.
then check for spark on all 4 cyl spark wire ends.
then if spark is good,
and compression, good, 150 not 80psi
you do know this is and inteference engine right? and if not
fresh timing belt the engine will grenade. for sure.
dont listen to dorks telling you, mine didnt, they are idiots.
if you like Russian roulette ? and $3000 new motors are joy?
then skip the belt.
that finishes off a 60k turn up, spark , filters and da belt.
then spark timing.
all the fuel in the world is useless on a dead motor or dead spark'.
fueling is last.
if motor and spark are good, then yes, fueling
try test fuel (spary)
if that works for duration of spray
then check fuel pressure
that be next.
and more... ask
no starts. cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.
ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)
5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.
this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.
Fuel Pump may be bad & not hold pressure Look up how to test a pressure regulator The misfire on 5 & 7 could be a different issue, smoke test the intake for vacuum leaks Leak down & such maybe good but you still can have mechanical issues in valve train or electronic problems
vast checks. really! EGR stuck open? but can save the stall, with a fast right foot action, using the wrong cap with a non suz, missing vacuum breaker will stall the pump an then engine. stalls can be. 1: engine issues, (compression bad on one or more cyl.) 2: bad spark 3: bad fueling. in that order. if compression good and spark at all cylinders are good. the you check fueling. 1: are spark plugs dry , white or black carbon, and/ or dripping in fuel? reading spark plugs works on all gas engine. 100 years span. to now. Google how to read spark plugs. this engine is EFI. and as such can do lots of things. leaking injectors. clogged , or dead. low fuel pressure. too high fuel pressures. at the least
it sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong coil. It should be #1 on the #4 coil, and the #3 wire on the #2 coil. you probably have them backwards so 1 and 3 are firing on the exhaust stroke. the firing order is 1-3-4-2. they should be hooked like this.