Question about 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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Batteries went dead bought 2 new and checked for a short have a 12 volt short.

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  • foley836 Jul 13, 2009

    yes. pulled the wires to it still had the short. Bought a new one still had the short.

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Are you saying that the battery is shorting itself???

Most likely you have a frayed or melted wire somewhere in the wiring harness. Not going to be the easiest thing to track down. If you can get the trouble codes read (AutoZone will do it for free), they may give you a hint of where to look as they will see shorts usually in the wiring harness.


Benjamin

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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HAVE U PUT A NEW ALTENATOR ON IT?

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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It sounds like an alternator related issue. Once the battery drops below 12 volts it will do lots of silly things with gauges and thats why when you change it all works fine. Check that with engine running with a volt meter you have 13.8 to 14.2 volts across the battery, if not you may have an alternator issue

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An unloaded reading of 10 Volts on a 12 Volt car battery is considered dead. There are 6 cells in a typical lead acid (car) battery - each provides 2 volts. They are internally connected in series to provide 12 volts on the + and - posts. If one is cell shorted out - you'd see 10 volts if fully charged. Trickle charge the battery for 24 hours and measure voltage again. If 12 volts, bring it to be load tested. that will tell you the true state of the battery.

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If you have 4 off 12 volt batteries connected in series (positive to negative leaving a positive terminal and negative terminal with no wires on then that is 48 volts. To check the batteries you have to disconnect each battery and have a load test done on each battery for 12 volts and dead cells. To get 20 volts you still have 2 batteries connected together with a good battery connected to a battery with a dead cell or else you would have 24 volts.

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A voltmeter is NOT the correct tool to check for an "ignition-off draw". A voltmeter will show 12 volts if ANYTHING is operating.

There are some things that are SUPPOSED to keep operating when the vehicle is shut off. These include, but are not limited to:
> Powertrain Control Module keep-alive memory
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> Remote control recievers (door locks, etc.)

What you need to know is how many AMPS are being drawn from the battery when the vehicle is shut off. This is done by using a shunt bar connected between the battery terminal and the battery cable connector.

Set the ammeter to the lowest setting (usually 2 or 5 amp scale) Connect the ammeter leads accross the shunt bar. Turn off all electrical accessories, ignition switch, etc. and wait for a minimum of 45 minutes for all of the computer systems to go into "sleep" mode. Then open the shunt bar and read the amperage.

The "rule of thumb" is 300 milliamps (or 0.3 amps). This is where you have a problem. Anything less than this is not a problem and is not the cause of your dead battery. My experience is that most vehicles built in the last 15 years or so, will usually measure around 150 milliamps if there is no aftermarket equipment installed. Please note that even this 150 milliamps will measure as 12 volts if measured with a volt meter. A 2 amp draw will also measure as 12 volts....However, a 2 amp draw will kill your battery overnight and the 150 milliamp draw won't.

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