Is it just me or are the pistons extremeley hard to compress in order to remove teh caliper. I had a rough time with teh right rear ended up hammering it off as I was replacing everything anyway but I need to change the left side now and dont want to go through the same ordeal. How can I compress the piston to get the caliper off the disc. I tried the screw driver between the pad and disc but it didnt go so well.
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IS THIS A REAR OR FRONT CALIPER?
1. FRONT CALIPER: INSERT A LARGE C CLAMP WITH THE SCREW END INTO OPEN BORE OF CALIPER PISTON, THE STATIONARY END SHOULD BE SNUG AGAINST THE CALIPER END HOUSING: THAT THE PISTON MOVES IN AND OUT OF
COMPRESS C-CLAMP UNTIL CALIPER PISTON SEATS FULLY AGAINST THE CALIPER SEAL. INSTALL NEW PADS
2. REAR CALIPER: RENT AT AUTOZONE A REAR DISC CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL. THESE CALIPER PISTONS WIND IN CLOCKWISE, INSTEAD OF JUST SLIDING BACK INTO A SMOOTH BORE. THEY HAVE GROOVES THAT FOLLOW A MATCHING SET IN THE CALIPER HOUSING.
You need to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper assembly to allow the new pads to fit over the rotor. A C clamp can be used to compress the caliper piston. Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap before compressing the piston and remove excess fluid from the reservoir to prevent over filling.
A special tool is required to compress the caliper piston on the rear brakes-don't use a C-clamp on the piston. Raise the vehicle and remove the tire. The rear calipers have only one guide pin. Remove this pin and raise the caliper. Remove the old brake pads. Using the special tool compress the caliper piston-the piston will have one or two slots on it. These slots must in the correct position to remount the caliper. Install the new brake pads and slide the caliper back over the rotor and replace the guide pin. If the caliper doesn't slide over the rotor you'll need to reset the slots on the piston. Replace the tires and you're ready to go.
If you open that bleed screw to compress the piston you'll have to bleed tha air out of the system, so don't open the screw. Use a 5" or 6" C clamp to compress you pistons IF they are not the screw in type - you can call your local auto parts store to determine that. If they are the screw ins, the parts store may have a piston compression kit to rent you for the job, as the piston would need to be rotated slightly as it is compressed. Do not try to just compress the screw ins - you'll break the caliper and have to buy a new one. Good luck!!
YOU NEED LARGE C - CLAMP TO COMPRESS PISTON IN CALIPER BORE.REMOVE SMALL AMOUNT BRAKE FLUID FROM BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR FIRST BEFORE YOU COMPRESS PISTON. AFTER REMOVING A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID.AND COMPRESSING CALIPER PISTON IN BORE.PLACE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR COVER BACK ON.WHEN FINISHING REPLACING BRAKES.PUMP BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL BRAKES FEEL SOLID AND FIRM CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL.DONT DRIVE VECHICLE IF BRAKES DONT FEEL FIRM OR SOLID.
You can use a large C clamp to compress the caliper piston, but make sure to remove the fill cap where you fill the brake fluid before you do. I generally fold a paper towel to one fourth original size and set that on top of the fill hose to keep from squirting fluid into the engine compartment. Use a brake pad and set it against the piston and compress the metal brake pad in order to deliver even force to the caliper piston.
The rear disk brake piston does not compress back into the caliper, it has notces on the caliper piston that a tool fits into and the caliper piston is actually turned or screwed back into the caliper, and a notch in the piston must also be aligned to fit the the small protrusion from the backing plate of the inner brake pad.
The brake tool can be obtained from most auto part stores, and it is usually square with protrusions sticking out from the sides in different patterns to fit various caliper pistons, and it usually attaches to a 3/8" drive extension and ratchet.
Do not compress this type of caliper piston because the caliper can damaged.
There are two stlyes of calipers for the rears. One is ratcheting so the piston has to be turned back to colaspe. The other type compresses with a C clamp. If a large retaining spring is on the inner part of the caliper you have the ratcheting type. A brake cable will attach to the spring as well. If not it will compress instead
take calipers loose from rotor.then take large c clamp and put one side on the piston the other side on backside of caliper.the tighten c clamp untill caliper is compressed;oh yea before you do ant of this remove cap from master cylinder
For the rear you need to turn the piston as you crank with the C clamp. It's a lot easier with the right tool. Any good parts store has the tool. The tool to use is a universal brake caliper tool, I picked mine up from Pep boys for $10 bucks. The tool fits on a socket wrench and you turn it clockwise to depress the piston into position.
If everything is apart and you don't have an extra car, just used a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers to get int the groves and twist, no pressure needed.
Tork it down just enough to get the caliper back on. Once it is all bolted back up you will pull many many times on your e-brake handle to tighten the piston back up against the new pad.
Good luck, but try to use the tool.