New battery, new starter relay, checked starter its good. now what??

Changing the computer is easy , it's what comes next that is the difficult part . Changing computers requires programming the new one . Dealer only ! Special tools needed .
Looking at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in the elctrical circuits would be a good first step . Then leaning how to trouble shoot automotive electrical systems would be good also. Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to read an interpret what's going on in the circuit ? How to do voltage drop testing on main B+ cable to the starter solenoid ? How to test the starter relay ( control side of the starter ) ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link.
Testing where the relay plug's into the fuse / relay box.

Relays Understanding Diagnosis and Testing Relayed Circuits Pt1
The starting motor relay in your vehicle is controlled by the PCM - engine computer . The PCM will supply a ground path for the coil side of the relay , if it see's an input fro the transmission range sensor switch, an there is no anti-theft system problem's . You can test at the relay for B+ voltage at two of the pin's an a ground through the starter an control from the PCM .
Starter Voltage Drop

Check fusible links.

Check your + and - connections on the battery. Also check your connections to the starter. Last, a bad cable could be robbing the amps needed before it gets to the starter.

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

Yank the starter relay in the under dash relay box. Check for battery power on terminals 1 & 2 in the relay socket with the key turned to START. If no power, check fuses 31 and 35. If you have power on those terminals, check for ground on terminal 3 in the socket when turned to START. If no ground, the Security system isn't seeing a good signal from the clutch interlock switch or the auto transmission shift console switch. Check those out

You checked the relays,found nothing wrong,so you
installed new ones anyway?

You checked the starter how?

You hear the solenoid click & that doesn't tell you
where it is?

ignition relay if good ===ignition switch.

Ground points vary from year to year but the main ones are from battery to block, strap from back of block to firewall, some small ones near the computer on the left fender and also one from battery to right fender.
You may have a starter solenoid that is worn out or a starter relay going bad. There is a ground wire going to that relay that can also give you a problem. To find it, you need to open up the power distribution center and check the ground at the relay itself, usually a double black wire (2) with a white stripe on them. Being that old, you may have replacement terminal ends as well. when cleaning them, you need to remove the wires from the attachment straps and clean there as well as the battery terminals.
Also, charge and have the battery load tested. Even a brand new one can sometimes have problems.

Starter turning slowly sounds like:

- bad starter, or
- bad connection to starter, or
- bad connection(s) on starter relay, or
- low charge on battery, and
- and maybe some others... but these are most likely

Given the steps you have taken, only one of two things this can be is a resistive connection between the battery and the starter solenoid terminal. Or the battery itself has a bad internal connection. Bear in mind: you cannot crank the engine through the average set of jumper cables unless the battery in the dead vehicle will hold and deliver a good charge. Jumper cables are not really intended to start the car, they are for boosting the good, but low battery in the car being jumped.