Question about 2003 Porsche Cayenne

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Porsche brake booster warning came on again.. i had already changed the brake booster, sensor and had checked all hose and vacuum line with no leak. Had reset the warning light several times... after driving 10-15 mins the lights keep coming back on.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bunnydawg
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SOURCE: booster vacuum hose

Locate the hose... it has to be one that can withstand the vacuum imposed on it, so that it does not collapse when their is vacuum to it which in this case is pretty much all the time. if you are not sure where the hose is.... look for your master cyclinder ... the large round metal can behind it next to the firewall. if you are not buying a direct replacement hose... take the old one off and take it to a auto shop or hardware store... get one a little longer then you need keeping in mind if you have to cut it you can't fix a hose that has been cut to short. there is a special tool for taking the clips off. tho you can usually just use a pair of pliers to squeeze the two metal tabs together as you move it back from the connection.
abit verbose answer and if i've not covered anything feel free to ask


Robert

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

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  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Check Engine Light

It sounds like you may have a failing Mass Air Flow sensor, seems like Ive been seeing these tied together quite often. Its a little tricky but a good repair shop should be able to test this sensor. I dont want to tell you to replace it without having it tested cause they are a bit pricey but check around, you never know. Hope this give youu another idea where to look.

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to change alternator in a porsche boxter

2 hours needed to change alternator:
- disconnect battery.
- remove top covers of engine - behind front seats
- remove 4 plastic bolts to remove side cover.
- remove all of the bolts to remove metal cover
- losen belt by putting a 24mm wrench on tensioner and turing CCW. You should also consider changing the belt ($18)
- remove the alternator screw and the flywheel screw beside alternator.
- move the alternator up on the flywheel screw side. If stuck use a hammer and wedge to move it up until it losens.
- remove wire and plug.

Rebuilding the alternator. Only 4 things can be wrong:
1- bearing worn out - turn rotor to test.
2- coils short - smell and check for burning in side.
3- Rectifier - take plastic cap off and test with an ohm meet from the heat sink to each of the 3 diodes, then reverse the testing points. If both resistances are the same on any of the 3 diodes, replace rectifier.
4- If the top 3 are fine, then it is the regulator. This is a hard part to find retail. Ebay and other sellers will try and get over $100 for it. Porche claims they don't sell. I found it a wholesaler, who I begged to sell it to me. Cost C$17. 2 bolts and one screw and 5 minutes later and it was replaced.

To reinstall follow the reverse. Remember the flywheel part of the alternator goes in on the to of the backet. you may have to use a hammer and wedge to get it down. Install the flywheel before it goes all the way down, or it will be difficult to slide in.

Enjoy.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 porsche leaking radiator fluid.

check for imperfections in the welding on the radiator

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Oil light and brake warning lights have come on Porsche 911 3.2

are they on all the time?

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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My boyfriends Toyota Tundra is leaking brake fluid. Sometimes a horrible white smoke billows out of the exhaust pipe just after starting up the truck. It quits after a few minutes. Where do you think the...


The white smoke has nothing to do with the brake fluid loss. Look around the brake master cylinder, brake lines and joiners and brakes for signs of moisture. They should all be clean and dry any build up of dirt could be a hydraulic leak. The white smoke is more likely from warn valve guides.

Mar 02, 2015 | 2004 Toyota Tundra

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My Tata Indica Lei smothers when I brake and I already changed the throttle body as that was diagnosed as the problem. The problem still persists and cannot be fixed. Help


I would check the vacuum lines to the intake, particularly the vacuum line leading from the power brake booster. The booster also has a valve which could be faulty, or the booster may be defective, causing a vacuum leak each time you depress the brake pedal.

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Brakes are hard>notbraking


check for vacuum line from intake assembly to brake booster. Check for cracks/ leaking. also check that the valve fitted in this line is not leaking. it definately is a vacuum problem

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I have a 1995 K1500. I have had every part of the brake system replaced and still no brakes. when I stump on them it feels like your pushing on a brick wall, then they leak down to almost the floor be


That hard pedal is a sign of a vacuum leak on the brake booster.Check the vacuum hose on the booster for holes and with the engine running have someone push the brake pedal while someone else watches the hose to see if it is collapsing when the brake is applied.If it does that will be your problem.Replace the 3/8 vacuum booster hose.It will have to be the thick hose just for a vacuum booster or it will do the same thing if that is what is wrong.

Jan 21, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

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ENGINE IS SURGING AND WONT IDLE


The MOST LIKELY cause of an engine surging and refusing to idle is a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum line connections. You can also pinch rubber vacuum hoses off one at a time near the intake manifold to see if the engine idle changes, - don't forget to check the hose to the brake booster. If pinching off the booster hose fixes the running problem it is possible that the booster itself is leaking if you can't find any leak in the hose.

You can check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifolsd gaskets and throttle body base by squirting some carburetor cleaner around these areas. If you spray this into a vacuum leak area, you will hear a change in engine RPM.

Aug 16, 2011 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

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Brake pedal got hard now it takes everything you have to stop it from moving


skdavisbob, This sounds like you have a problem with the brake booster that is attached to the firewall. When these boosters fail it is like trying to stop a house as you describe here. There is a one way check valve near the top of the booster that uses vacuum from the engine to operate. Inspect the hose and be sure that it is attached at both ends and that there are no leaks in this hose. This can be done by running the engine and listening for a leak. (hissing noise) Replace the hose if faulty. If you don't hear any vacuum leak then turn the engine off and pull the check valve out of the booster. This takes a little effort as it is quite secure in the grommet. You should hear a vacuum leak for a split second because when the valve is removed it will allow air in (if it is working properly) and you should hear the leak. If you don't hear the hiss, then test the valve by blowing through it both ways. As stated, this is a one way valve and you should be able to blow air through one way but not the other. If you can blow air both ways then the check valve is faulty. If the hose and valve are working properly then you will have to have the booster replaced. Good luck with this.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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My 2003 Toyota Previa (diesel, with ABS) brake warning light on dashboard lights on after pressing brake pedal a couple of times and when it lights off pedal goes slowly all the way down to the floor. In...


Sounds like there is a fault with the vacuum pump not generating enough vacuum for the brake booster assist, or a leaking vacuum hose. Try pinching off all the vacuum hoses to see if the problem goes away. Could also be a leak in the brake vacuum booster itself

Oct 11, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Previa

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

3 Answers

Brakes stay soft even though they have been bled and the brake booster replaced. It sounds like there is an air leak somewhere. I replaced the master cylinder as well then they were bled and still I have...


If there are no brake line/fitting leaks and no crimped or bent brake lines/hoses:
The key to my answer is the sound of air leaking...
Check the Brake Booster to the rear of the Master Cylinder.
1. Check the Vacuum Hose going to the Air Resonator with the one way check valve. Make sure the Vacuum Hose does not have cracks, holes, etc.; or does not collapse with the engine on. If there are any problems with the hose - replace the hose. With the engine on: remove the Hose for the Resonator and check for a vacuum. CAREFULLY: Remove the Resonator and reconnect it to the Vacuum Hose. Again check for the presence of a vacuum coming from the inside of the Resonator. If the Hose had a vacuum, but the Resonator does not = Replace the Resonator. If there is a Vacuum - Reconnect the Vacuum Hose and Resonator to the Brake Booster

2. Checking the Brake Booster Seals:
a. While the Engine is running: Push in the brake pedal. Stop the Engine while keeping the Brake Pedal pushed in.
(1) If there is a change = the Brake Pedal sinks to the floor: The Brake Booster has a Air Leak.
(2) If there is no change = GO TO TEST 2 (#3 below)

3. Turn the engine on and wait a couple of minutes and turn the engine off. Push in the Brake Pedal several times.
a. If the Pedal goes down farther the first time, but continues to rise = gets harder after the 2nd, 3rd time the Brake Booster is fine.
b. If the Pedal continue to go farther down on each push = the Brake Booster has a leak.

One seal in particular - located where the Brake Booster is attached to the Fire Wall - located behind the Brake Pedal Arm. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. With the engine on and a partner pushing on the Brake pedal: try to determine if that rear seal is where the air is leaking from.
Any Air Leak in the Brake Booster Main Seals = a new (remanufactured) Brake Booster must be purchased, as these are not repairable.

Let me know if this helped. or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

May 13, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Breeze

2 Answers

2002 suzuki grand vitara brake warning goes on and off


Do you have a brake fluid accumulator(ABS)? If yes, the pistons/pulsing assembly are worn, and may need to be replaced.

If not, you may have a vacuum leak in the power booster (located on the firewall). Check all hose and clamps for a tight fit/cracks,etc. Vacuum leaks cause intermittent brake failure lights.

You may want to park the vehicle on a clean surface, pump the brakes a few times, and check for brake fluid leaks. If there is a leaking wheel cylinder (back brakes) , caliper (front brakes), or brake line, you will be able to see it.

Leaks cause pressure loss, and, thus, the brake warning light will illuminate.

Mar 26, 2009 | 2002 Suzuki XL-7

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