Brake pedal goes to the floor and when bleeding brakes on the front no fluid came out. why?

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Hi,
Probably air in the brake system. Bleed your brakes thoroughly. Start with right rear, then left rear, then right front then left front. Maintain proper fluid level in master cylinder while bleeding. Brake pedal hieght comes from the rear brakes, as those are the longest brake lines in the system. Mike

You may need to further bleed the brakes. Something pumping to bleed the brakes can **** in air at the brake fluid reservoir. Try using a vacuum pump to **** out brake fluid from the release screw at the brake side. Make sure you always have enough fluid at the reservoir.

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.

1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.

1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Start with brake in the rear that is the farthest away from the master cylinder ( if your master cylinder is on drivers side start with passenger rear,pump up brake pedal until hard have someone else open bleeder valve until air or fluid squirts out,while holding brake pressure even if goes to the floor dont release pedal until bleeder valve is tightened or you will **** air back into the line,do this several times making sure you get a full stream of brake fluid and no air,continue to other rear wheel and then proceed to front wheel furthest from master cylinderand then final wheel. if you still don't have brakes change master cylinder and bleed all brakes again.

sometimes it may take a while to bleed the brakes, to bleed the brakes you need two people. to bleed brakes properly: make sure car is off and brake fluid is full, have someone pump up the brake pedal until it feels hard and hold it down once it is hard(make sure when you loosen the bleed screw the person pushes the pedal to the floor), have another person loosen the bleed screw until the brake pedal is on the floor of the car. repeat as needed and check the brake fluid often when doing this

The "pedal goes to floor" is a mechanical problem and it more than likely that there is still air in the system and that the bleeding is not complete. Find level ground and start at the back of the truck with the hand brake off, chock the wheels if needed. Fill the brake fluid reservoir. Loosen the bleed screw on the back brake assembly and have a colleague depress the brake. Tighten and release the brake, NEVER allow the brake pedal to rise when the bleed screw is loose as this will **** air back into the system. Undo the bleed screw about half a turn and again depress the brake, tighten off at bottom of stroke and again release the pedal. Every couple of times top up the brake fluid reservoir. Keep pushing fluid through until about half a pint has been expelled from the bleed screw assembly. Tighten off the bleed screw for good. Go the other rear wheel and repeat the process making sure that the reservoir never runs out of fluid. . Now go to the front and repeat with both wheels. There should come a time that your colleague can report that there is increasing resistance when standing on the brake pedal. If after all this the pedal continues to sink to the floor it sounds like the seal on the master cylinder piston is defective or there is a leak in the brake line.

It sounds like you have a bad mastercylinder cause when you panic brake it doesn't have time to bleed through the valve in the cylinder but under normal braking your foot is on pedal longer in turn giving the fluid time to bypass the valve in the mastercylinder in turn the pedal going to the floor.

First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)