Question about 1993 Toyota Camry V6

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Knocking noise topend of motor lossoen cam bearings and it get quiter almost goes away motor has good oil pressure this my 1st yota PLZ HELP!!!! THANKS

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Check valve adjustmen

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Loud valve train


That or very worn cam bearings. Or both.
Usually if the oil pump is failing you will loose oil pressure as the engine warms up. Noise at first is excessive wear in the engine parts.
The noise goes away as soon as oil reaches the worn parts.

Jan 30, 2014 | 2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca

1 Answer

My 2004 chevy trailblazer is knocking


could be a big end or main bearing but there are a few simple checks that can be done first
1--have the oil pressure checked using a mechanical gauge
if there is a bad bearing there will be low pressure at idle
2 --check the exhaust for smoke under load
if there is a bad bearing , the escaping oil will overload the oil ring and produce smoke
( if smoke comes after idling at lights and on taking off that is valve stem seals)
3--- run the fault codes and check for knock sensor problems
the noise could be detonation under load from lean fuel mixture or incorrect timing
4---check the ignition timing
5-- run the engine when it is knocking and remove a plug wire and see if the knocking stops
bearings will stop knocking if there is no combustion to place load on the crankshaft
That will also indicate which big end you have to check if you have to pull the sump
Too far advanced will cause the pistons to slap the cylinder walls hard for too far advanced ignition
you statement that the noise goes after 40 indicates that it is not a bearing as the high the rpm the louder the noise
taking the foot off the pedal indicates detonation
lastly if all the checks prove good , you could always have the sump removed and check each big end and main individually for damage
sometimes a failing cam chain if fitted ( no motor identified) will knock as the chain hits the timing cover

Jul 23, 2017 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

Why does my engine knock when i start it up


is it a knock or tap if its a tapping noise then goes away straight away its a week hydrolic cam lifter if its a heavy engin knock either lack of oil or big end bearing expensive if its this

Aug 14, 2012 | 2008 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

2004 tribute engine making ticking sounds


Hi there:
First I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Jun 20, 2012 | Mazda Tribute Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

A knocking that starts when engine is cranked then it goes away


The knock is likely a worn connecting rod bearing. Are you using the correct weight of oil, never use any heavier than 10W30W, heavy oil viscosity's cause slow circulation through the oil passages and starve the engine's bearings for oil.

May 17, 2012 | 2002 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

I have an '01/'02 Grand Cherokee Laradeo, when I slow down the oil pressure drops to zero, when I accelerate it goes back up. There is a quiet knock as well, this just started happening. Pleas


If there was no noise when it went to zero I would replace the sending unit by the oil filter for a few dollars. If it is a light ticking and it is all the time I would replace the bad lifter but if it is more clanking or thumping you have problems. If you disconnect one plug wire at a time and run it for a few seconds and the noise goes away that cylinder has a bad connecting rod bearing. I would pull the oil pan and replace the bearing. Or just replace crank and connecting rod bearings and get rid of it

Jan 08, 2012 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

89 gmc c2500 5.7 tbi had oil changed at well known franchise place. They also recommended flush out, let run 15 min with stuff he put in oil. Then drained, added oil and was about 1/2 mile away when motor...


Hi, this is not the first time i've heard of this problem..I have repaired engines with rod knock, crank bearing knock and piston slap after these treatments. These products can clean so much carbon and varnish from the engine that it brings the real internal problems to the surface. Try using thicker oil

Jul 25, 2011 | 1985 GMC C2500

1 Answer

Low oil pressure at stop and knocking sound


First check the oil level and condition. Have your trucks oil pressure actually checked with a gage. It should be at least 42p.s.i. to 55p.s.i. The knocking noise is probably related to low oil pressure. Depending on the type of knock it could be crank shaft bearings, piston wrist pins, rod bearings, cam bearings or noisy lifters. All a result from low oil or pressure. 3 possible causes, are low oil level and pressure, lack of oil changes and viscosity of oil breaks down to where it can't lubricate or dissipate heat and coolant getting into oil, reduces pressure and prematurely wears down bearings. Have it properly diagnosed before you seize your engine solid.

Apr 06, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

I hear knocking when motor runing


WHEN COLD THEN GOES AWAY WHEN WARM. THATS NORMAL FORGED PISTONS SLOP WHEN COLD.I HAVE 01 SILVERADO WITH 390,000 RUNS GREAT 21MPG 40TO50 PSI OIL PRESSURE KNOCKS WHEN COLD THEN GOES AWAY. NOT A PROBLEM. IF IT DOSE IT WHEN WARM AND LOW OIL PRESSURE WORN BEARINGS NOT GOOD.

Jan 26, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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