Question about 1989 Plymouth Voyager

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Changed pads, calipers, and rotors on 1998 ford ranger, and bled lines several times, pedal still loses pressure and goes to the floor. Why won't pressure build?

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  • tom johnson Jul 13, 2009

    Thanks for your reply.  It's a 1998 2 wheel drive XLT.  If I pump the breaks they pressurize for a few seconds, and then the pedal can be depressed all the way to the floor again.  I can also hear air leaking from the master cylinder area as the break pedal is depressed, sounds like it's coming from the reservoir cap.  When I turn the truck on and pump the pedal, no pressure builds, the pedal goes to the floor every time.  Do you think that the ABS sensor could be a problem also?  Thanks again for any ideas/info you have.   How do I check master cylinder/booster for problems?  Can I just replace seals or does whole system have to be replaced?



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There is one last thing to check out and that is the brakes' Master cylinder under the hood, and in some cases you will also have a brake booster for the power brakes. Both of these parts have seal inside them that can break up and disintegrate after a while and without these seals they cannot build the pressure to send the hydraulic oil to the slave cylinders, or the calipers and wheel cylinders if you prefer. So you will need to get those verified and changed if needed. Feel free to write me back if you need more details on this, and if so please provide me with the exact model ranger you have, if it's 4x4 or not, what engine, etc. so i can have as much info as possible to work with and find the exact parts' placement and all.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • Gilbert Labont?
    Gilbert Labont? Jul 13, 2009

    I have found some new info you will find interesting i think. When i went looking on autozone to find repair info on a ranger master cylinder, i found this warning and thought that this might be the cause of your problem. It goes as follows:

    "Vehicles with 4-wheel anti-lock brakes require an Anti-lock Brake Adapter (T90P-50-ALA) and Jumper (T93T-50-ALA) in order to bleed the master cylinder and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU). Failure to do so will trap air in the HCU unit, eventually causing a spongy pedal."

    Although since you just bled the calipers, i doubt this will be exactly it, although to what extent did the fluid drain when you changed the calipers, that i don't know and might have still been enough to get air all the way up to the master cylinder and HCU. By the way, just for your personnal knowledge, i also copied you an image of a cutout of the master cylinder unit.

    I would suggest you register yourself at as it is free to use and free to register of course, and sometimes has some useful info. That's where this picture and warning come from and there is alot of stuff there that i am sure will help you out tons! Just add a vehicule in the rollout in the top of the page where i says Current Vehicule: and put in your 1998 Ford Ranger 2wd with whatever engine you have (you didn't mention it earlier so i figured it was probably a 3.0l V6 like most rangers and put that in just for the purpose of getting the info i needed). Next click the View Repair Guide link above the rollout while making sure you now have you newly added ranger selected. Just click brakes and then it will automatically pop you to the calipers section. Just click Brake operating system under the Select a Chapter section of the page and then you will see the Master Cylinder and Brake Booster sections appear in Select a Chapter also. Voila, hope this helps you out:)

  • Gilbert Labont?
    Gilbert Labont? Jul 13, 2009

    Oh and I forgot to mention that usually it is not really a good idea to dismantle the master cylinder to change the seal indside, as it is usually much less trouble to just go get one at the scrap yard or local parts store that sell jobber models.



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