Engine turns over wont crank and none of my belts move when trying to crank car.

with the belt on or off? If when off, anything not turning means the bearings are probably frozen. The units would need replacement. Its a coincidence that all are not turning at the same time. CHECK CRANK & CAMS WITHOUT THE BELT. IF THOSE ARE N/G YOUR STARTING TO LOOK AT A MOTOR REPLACE OR SERIOUS REPAIR.

What engine?

I assume you checked for fuel pressure and have none?

There is no switch to reset. Ford is the only one that uses this.

If you have not checked for fuel pressure or for spark here is some info to get you in the right direction.

The six cylinder (2.7 LITER) has a common issue with the distributor. Pretty simple to figure out. Check for spark. If there is no spark than replace the distributor.

You may also want to check to see if the timing belt is broken. On the 6 cylinder you can pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor spins while you crank the engine over. If it does not spin your timing belt is likely broken.

On the four cylinder you can take a few of the bolts off from the upper timing cover and watch the timing belt while the engine cranks over to see if it is moving.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

To clarify, if the engine cranks or turns over but won't start, look for a stuck pulley on the engine. You may be hearing the belt slipping on that pulley. Take the belt off and try turning each pulley - also try starting the engine with the belt off.

In every likelihood have the Bendex of the checked up. It is not connecting the self starter motor with the engine crank shaft thus the whirring sound.

More detail would be helpful. By not start, that could mean the engine rotates but won't start or you turn the key and nothing happens.

Since you do have a 2000 model I can tell you that they had issues in that model year with crank walk. The thrust bearing in some engines was too small and would allow the crank the move side-to-side (transversely) in the block. Some symptoms included knocking, engine dying on turns, timing or serpentine belt failure....

Yes, the crank will spin a few times to each rotation of the rotor. If you have the timing belt on, you should be able to crank the engine with the starter. Just make sure you take the spark wire off the coil first so it wont start. Also make sure you lined up the marks on the crank and cam sprockets or you may have serious timing issues.
The engine is fairly hard to turn over with normal length socket wrenches. I use a breaker bar.

there are a few different things it could be first thing to check would be if the timing belt is broken this is done by removing the oil fill cap and having someone else crank the engine and at the same time some one else is looking in the oil fill hole to see if the valve train is moving. if its not the belt is broken. another common problem is the fuel system main relay. or an ignitor or coil

If your timing belt broke while driving, there WILL be engine damage. Valves will not be moving in response to your pistons continuing to move. I hope that it is not your timing belt. Check your ignition module, first, that's easier.

Hope this helps!

3.0l Mitsubishi 6 cylinder.
support engine... remove engine mount... remove alternator, power stearing pump, compressor (if equipt) do not remove hoses from power stearing pump or compressor move them out of the way were they wont get damaged. Remove the tension pulley for the serpentine belt, and the tensioner for the compressor belt if equipt. then remove the compressor mounting bracket. Next remove the engine mounting plate and the crank pulley and balancer assembly. you should now be able to remove the the 3 piece timing cover. Once removed remove the tensioner spring from the water pump and loosen the tensioner nut. Remove the belt. At this point it is also recommended to replace the water pump and plumbing as well. The water pump service life is aproximately the same as the timing belt at 60,000 miles. This engine in stock form is a non interfering type engine. Meaning that moving the cams or crank out of sync will not cause damage. Turn each of the cams over by hand and line them up with the timing mark on the top of the back cover with the marks on the pulleys. Using a wrench turn the crank so that the pulley mark lines up with the mark cast into the block. replace the belt, tensioner spring (replace tensioner if warn) and tighten the tensioner bolt. roll the crank over 2 complete turns forward and recheck the cams to make sure the marks are still lined up. roll the crank backwards and recheck the timing marks again. (this process is much easier done with the plugs removed.) If everything is still lined up correctly (crank at TDC and cam pulleys pointing to each designated mark on the covers.) reassemble the cover and assessorys in the reverse order that they were removed and reinstall the old motor mount or replace if needed.

put car at top dead center then put the rotor on distributor to the first piston firing