I've traced the problem to box 18 in my fuse box, but when I put a new one in, it blows immediatel. Assuming that means there's a short in the wiring. I read that it could likely be due to after market radio installation, which I had done months prior to the problem. Could it be something else?
SOURCE: after installing a aftermarket stereo.
you have the car illumination wire hooked into the radio it will show as a ground when lights not on but power with lights on this is why fuse is blowing
SOURCE: keep blowing fuse for rear taillights and dashboard lights
Sounds like loose wires. Had a similar problem with my 03 Durango. Kept blowing fuses when I put them in. Came to find out my trailer wiring harness had fried and was shorting out.
SOURCE: 1996 ford explorer windows, locks and seat fuse keeps blowing
Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.
If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.
Good Luck.
SOURCE: 2008 Ford Escape Horn Fuse keeps blowing after
I would trace the wire from the horn and see if it was inadvertently damaged when the alternator was installed. If you have a voltmeter, you can remove the horn fuse and check to see if there is continuity between the horn (non hot side) of the fuse and the car body. This would indicate a short in the wire running from the fuse box to the horn. You can also look around the alternator mounting area to see if any wires are being pinched. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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