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The way to stop the check engine light is to pull the error code(s) from the computer and resolve what is indicated. REMEMBER the code is a CLUE and not necessarily the issue, for example, an intake leak can cause a oxygen sensor to register out of range.... The light would reset automatically, in absence of errors.
I had check engine light and TRAC OFF. OBD-II MIL code was P1133 which is Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Response Malfunction and scanned by AutoZone. After disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes, the lights went off. I cleaned the gas cap and tightened it firmly. For the last 400 miles, the lights have not come back. When scanning using Snap-on one, no code was detected. I think gas cap was the reason for the lights.
There is one before each catalytic converter (usually up right near the exhaust manifolds), and one after each cat (or if you have a Y-pipe exhaust that brings the two sides together to one pipe and one converter, then there's one after that single converter). Why do you want to change them? Have you gotten failure codes or are you having poor gas mileage? Or have they just been in there a long time? They're usually good for about 60k miles, although of course they can fail early. Usually the symptoms are poor fuel economy, running rich (seen by black smoke out the tailpipes and some rough idling, as well as blackened spark plugs), or fault codes dealing with system-lean or system-rich descriptions. Those symptoms are indicative of bad primary O2 sensors (the ones closest to the engine). If your secondary sensor(s) are failing (the post-cat sensor or sensors) you'll trip a check-engine light warning you of poor catalytic converter efficiency.
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