Replace exhaust manifold on 2002 civic LX is it hard to do?
Anything specifically I should becareful about?
Do I need to remove anything prior to removing the exhaust manifold ie; rad.
The replacement manifold is used but not cracked. Will I need a new gasket at the motor side and down at the donut side?
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Re: replace exhaust manifold on 2002 civic LX is it hard...
Yoou shouldn't have to remove the radiator for this fix. I would recommend using new gaskets and donuts due to the replacement manifold being used, it may be slightly warped from heat, would definately replace the gaskets and such. Hope this helps.
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Starter Advice would be, Make sure the vehicle is cold (hasn't been running recently) Take pictures of the mounting brackets & hoses before hand for reference. Then detach hoses & then mounting brackets & replace. Good Luck,
It's different for each individual car.
If you go to your local Honda Dealership they can look it up for you.
They will need the VIN to get the code for your specific car.
Bring your insurance card, registration, and photo ID to prove ownership.
Be sure not to write it down inside the car.
Not the owner's manual or anything else kept inside the car.
The radio code is a form of anti theft.
Keep the code at home or on you computer.
WELL WHICH OXYGEN YOU REPLACING THE UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR MOUNTED IN EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND THE DOWN STREAM OXYGEN SENSOR LOCATED IN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AFTER THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER .YOU NEED A OXYGEN SENSOR SOCKET TO REMOVE IT.TO REMOVE OXYGEN SENSOR CRANK VECHICLE TO GET OXYGEN SENSOR HOT BECAUSE HARD TO REMOVE WHEN COLD.BECAREFUL DONT GET BURN ON EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN REMOVING OXYGEN SENSOR.AND WHEN INSTALLING NEW OXYGEN SENSOR USE ANTI SEIZE COMPOUND ON SENSOR THREADS.BUT MOST OF THE TIME NEW SENSOR WILL HAVE ANTI SEIZE COMPOUND ON IT.
Water pump is driven by timing chain idler and is mounted on the rear of the timing chain housing. Disconnect the neg. battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector.
Remove upper exhaust manifould heat sheild. Remove exhaust manifold brace. Remove lower exhaust manifold heat sheild. Loosen manifold to exhaust manifold spring loaded nuts. Remove radiator outlet pipe to water pump coverbolts. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Pull down on the exhaust pipe to disconnect it from exhaust manifold bolts. Disconnect outlet pipe from oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with manual tranaxle, remove exhaust maifold brace. Leave lower radiator hose attached and pull down on radiator out look pipe to disengauge from water pump. Leave outlet pipe hanging.
Lower vehicle. Remove exhaustmanifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove manifould. Remove timing chain front cover. Remove timing chain tensioner. Remove bolts bolts securing water pump cover to cylinder block. Remove water pump to timing chain housing nuts. Remove water pump attaching nuts. Remove water pump and cover assembly. Separate componets as necessary.
WHEN INSTALLING WATER PUMP MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCES THAT AFFECT SEALING. My frist one I messed up and broke the pump so becarful.
If cover was separated from body during removal, join this componets with a new gasket and hand tighten bolts. Apply bearing grease to splines of water pump drive. Set body and assemble into position.
Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Installand hand tighten nuts securing body to timing chain housing. Lubracate outlet pipe "O" ring with antifreeze. (I use RTV) Connect outlet pipe. Install and hand tighten bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification in the following sequence. I'll ad the torque spec. at the end but this is where if you tighten out of order something will break.
pump assembly to timing chain housing nuts.
pump cover to pump body bolts
pump cover to cylinder block bolts (Bottom Bolt First)
outlet pipe to cover bolts
To complete installation reverse removel procedure.
Torque specs are 19 in. or 26mm all except water pump cover bolts which are 124 in or 14Nm
I never torque the bolts just make sure there done in the right order.
NOT HARD BUT YOU HAVE TO DRAIN COOLANT OUT OF SYSTEM.CATCHING IT IN A DRAIN PAN .THE 2.4 ENGINE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE. OXYGEN SENSOR THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD.REMOVE COOLANT INLET HOUSING BOLT THROUGH THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD .REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD BRACE TO MANIFOLD BOLT.REMOVE TO EXHAUST TO PIPE STUDS.REMOVE COOLANT INLET HOUSING TO WATER PUMP COVER BOLT.REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD BY PULLING IT DOWNWARD.REMOVE COOLANT INLET PIPE FROM THE OIL PAN.REMOVE BRAKE VACUUM PIPE FROM THE CAMSHAFT HOUSING.REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD.REMOVE HEATER HOSE FROM THE HEATER OUTLET PIPE.REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER AND TENSIONER.REMOVE WATER PUMP COVER TO ENGINE BOLTS.REMOVE 3 WATER PUMP TO TIMING CHAIN HOUSING NUTS.REMOVE THE WATER PUMP AND COVER ASSEMBLY.THE 3.1 AND 3.4 ENGINES DRAIN COOLING SYSTEM .REMOVE DRIVE BELT.REMOVE WATERPUMP PULLEY TO REMOVE PULLEY YOU NEED A LONG SKINNEY SCREW DRIVER TO HOLD PULLEY FROM TURNING WHILE YOU REMOVE THE BOLTS.THEN REMOVE WATER PUMP.CLEAN OLD GASKET MATERIAL OFF ENGINE BLOCK WHERE WATER PUMP GOES.BECAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH PUMP SURFACE ON ENGINE BLOCK.YOU CAN BUY CAN OF GASKET REMOVER AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORES. THEN WHEN YOU PUT ON NEW WATER PUMP.BESURE TO COAT BOTH SIDES OF THE WATER PUMP GASKET WITH GASKET SEALER .BEFORE PUTTING GASKET SEALER ON WATER PUMP GASKET.BESURE TO GET HOLES MATCH UP RIGHT ON WATER PUMP AND GASKET.WHEN YOU GET IN PUMP IN PLACE TORQUE IT AT 89 INCH POUNDS AND PULLEY BOLTS 18 FT LBS.THE 2.4 ENGINE BEST TO HAVE** HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL ** BECAUSE REMOVING THE WATER PUMP YOU ARE DEALING WITH THE TIMING CHAIN AND TENSIONER.YOU NEED ALL THE EXHAUST BOLTS TORQUE SPECS.AND WHEN YOU COMPLETE WATER PUMP FIX.ADD COOLANT.CRANK ENGINE.CHECK FOR LEAKS.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.
First, inspect the exhaust manifold. If there are any cracks present then you need to replace the manifold and gaskets, as well as the sensor. VERY common with Accents.
If the manifold has no cracks then continue on.
Run the car until it's at normal operating temperature then shut it off.
Using an o2 sensor socket and a ratchet with extension (all very cheap at auto parts stores) remove the o2 sensor. If it begins to turn hard on removal then stop and put it back in, you will need an exhaust manifold. You can take the plug off easy by using a flat head screwdriver to press the button that holds the plug together and wiggling the plug at the same time. Otherwise, put the new sensor in being careful to NOT TOUCH IT TO ANYTHING!
If the tip of the sensor contacts your skin, or anything else that has oils on it, the sensor will be rendered useless and you will have a check engine light.
Tighten the sensor down, plug it in. Drive to your local auto parts store and have them clear the code in the computer with their hand held scanner. This is usually free. If you did ok, you won't have a light come on and you will enjoy better gas mileage. If the light comes back on in a day or two then you messed something up or there was a crack in the manifold that you didn't catch.
may be the head gasket, check the oil filler cap for lime creamy deposit & if you can see the water throught the top up filler cap a red/blue discolouration on the top layer of water shows if oil is getting into the water system. either of those two test's mean's the head gasket need's changing, if not then change the thermostat, they usually stick closed from starting & cook the engine in minutes but you never know, anything in the cooling system could be causing this, a blockage or the water pump......
Hard problem to diagnose, I'd have to be there, but hope that help's..