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No, Paul, those are three different areas, or things. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindle that the tire is mounted on. That is for steering. The link rods connect the sway bar to each side of the front end- these are high wear items, often replaced.
The third: now the "strut tops" being noisy, this should be of concern to you, insofar as what are they doing about that? Ask them if that means replacing worn struts (quite an added expense), or checking the security of the top mounting-like loose bolts or nuts. I would want specifics on what exactly they mean. The strut tops are where the two front struts mount on the car frame, and usually found under the hood on each side, like 3 nuts holding the top of the strut, and the bottom of the strut is attached to the wheel spindle or wheel knuckle, same thing. So the strut at the wheel, moving up and down, strut absorbs the shock and diminishes it by a solid mounting to the frame- the strut tops. Hope this helps you understand a bit.
Alarming, don't drive it except to a mechanic. Possibly:
- wheel nuts are loose - wheel hub nut is loose - axle bearing has collapsed (that would be noisy) - front knuckle ball joint has failed - suspension strut to knuckle bolts (two) are loose - strut upper mounting has failed or is loose
if the noise happens when the car is moving then you're hitting theh wheel stop that prevent the wheel from rotating around. typically the wheel stop looks like the back of a cupped hand and its located on the lower control arm that comes off the strut. smear some grease on it and that will probably eliminate the noise.
on some cars the noise is from the strut bearing on top. the strut bearing is located on the top of the strut tower. You can hear that noise if you stand on the side of the car with the hood open and then have someone turn the wheel until the noise comes in. the car doesn't need to be moving to hear a bad strut bearing.
lastly, check the belt tension for the power steering belt as the belt may be slipping under the load of a full turn
Sounds like the fluid has drained out of your struts over time or all the seals have had it . If you're handy replace the struts,the strut bearings and check the ball joints and links.If you are not handy DO NOT try to replace them on your own , they can bite you really hard and put you in hospital.Might be a job for your local garage.Good luck.
sounds like it could be wheel bearings but I'm surprised that when they rotate the tires they didn't catch this.
The next time you have your tires rotated ask to have the jacked up front end tested for loose front end parts. They can shake it down physically looking for play in the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bearings.
Struts generally wear out and cause a bouncy front end conditioin. Brakes, if properly assembled, won't make any additional noise when turning left or right.
Yes there is. one indication that bearings are going bad is, you will start hearing a whirlling noise or low vibration hum. the worst they get the prevelent it will become. one way to check is to raise tire suspected tire, grab(wiggle) it and check for up and down play. there should be none.
1. The top bushings on the Mac' struts have DRIED out, where the strut rod passes thro' the top mounting anchor. Disconnect using a Spring clamp, and use Molybdenum anti seize grease.
2. A broken strut suspension coil spring.
3. A dry idler arm shaft bushing.
Before you change the struts check the stabilizer linkages and bushings. They will make a lot more noise a lot easier than a strut will. Also check the torque on the strut bearing bolts that go up through the strut tower. While the car is sitting, Push down hard on the front end and listen for where the noise is coming from. Other possible sources of the noise are the lower ball joints or the strut bearing. If you are changing the struts, change the strut bearings as well. You don't want to have to unbolt everything again if they go bad in ten thousand more miles. Good luck.
Upper strut mounts aren't prone to rattling or knocking as they are usually under load all the time. Very few cars do not have a swivel bearing - a few old Fords are all I can think of. Most current models have the swivel bearing integrated into the strut mount, the main job of which is to insulate road noise from the body. Some cars use a swivel bearing fitted between the strut and lower spring cup.
Worn shock absorber internal valves can be very noisy over small bumps and road undulations and wear in steering rack components can make similar noises especially the rack slipper bearing, the rack end support bearing and the rack end joints.
Many track control arm ball joints have an internal spring to compensate for small amounts of wear. When such a joint has worn significantly it is not always possible to detect free play with hand pressure but they are liable to make noise on the road.
Struts that are housings fitted with shock absorber cartridges retained by a single large nut - the nut can sometimes be loose by a small amount causing the cartridge to knock inside the casing.
The strut piston rod and bush is subject to a great deal of force from the reaction of acceleration and braking and considerable wear can take place between the rod and it's bush. The trouble is any free play cannot be detected when the vehicle is jacked and the wheels clear of the ground and similarly cannot be detected with normal force when the vehicle weight is on the ground. I find lifting the car until the suspension is only compressed an inch or two gives the best chance of detecting wear though considerable strength and energy is still needed.