The bucket on the backhoe part won't operate, all else is, it just quit working

Undo the hose at the slightly at the lowest end of the new line and pump the cylinder slowly until the air is expelled and fluid flows from the line - make sure you keep the slave cylinder full.
Once there is a continuous flow tighten the hose and bleed again if necessary.

clutch slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder problem
if is more than 4 years since either was replaced , now would be a good time to do it

This means there is a leak in the brake fluid circuit or that the master/brake cylinder has failed. Look into the brake lines and observe the leak on the wheels or the master cylinder. If so the buckets of the cylinders must be replaced as well as the fluids must be refilled after work and the system must be freed of air by bleeding.This will make the brakes work with full effort and a good pedal.

Check around the clutch master cylinder for leaks. Sometimes all it needs is a few seals and it's good to go. make sure the clutch slave cylinder is full off fluid.
If you still have fluid in the system when you apply pressure to clutch, fluid will come out where the line is damaged.
Another possibility could be that the reservoir may be out of fluid (which means you have a leak that needs fixing). Some more uncommon things that can happen is having a broken clutch release bearing or fork or release cable. just my opinion, get it looked at by a garage or friend that is a mechanic or knows cars. because if you take it to the dealer it usually will be a big ripoff in $$$. good-luck and may god bless !

It sounds like there may be air in the brake system. First thing to do is check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, if it is low, check the entire system for a leak. You may have to remove the wheels to check for leaks at the wheel cylinders and calipers. Even if you don't find a leak, I would go ahead and bleed the brake system. If bleeding the system doesn't help, the problem could be with the master cylinder or power brake booster. Make sure the large diameter vacuum hose going to the brake booster is in good shape and fits tight at both ends. A vacuum leak could cause a hard pedal.

Probably air locked. check to see if one of the hoses leading into heater is hot. Other cause could be heater solenoid control valve faulty. Very unlikely that the heater matrix is blocked. Easiest way to bleed heater is to remove hose's when car is cold and GENTLY flush through with garden hose and push hoses back on when full of water, so you know you have a heater full of fluid. Hope this helps

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

just keep on bleeding it through if your'e sure theres nothing wrong with the slave cylinder... so long as all the pipes are light and cutch and slave cylinder are known to be working there can only be air in the system, just be really patient, I had a suzuki motorcycle a few months back that took 500ml of fluid before all the air was gone! - just keep at it and be patient, sometimes you have to stab at the pedal a bit to get the first bit of fluid through, dont worry about getting air into the system at this point, just get the pipes and cylinders more or less full of fluid by filling the reservoir and undoing the nipple so it just leaks a little, press the pedal quite slowly and repeatedly to get the first bit done (get some fluid down the pipes), then tighten the bleed nipple, then press the clutch a good few times, carry on with normal bleeding from this point - about 15 operations of open nipple, press slowly to floor+hold it down until nipple is closed, close nipple, release pedal , open nipple..... --- you get the picture. ---- if that does not work your slave cylinder must have packed in, or the master cylinder you have is no good (dont overlook a part as faulty just because it is new!) ----- keep the reservoir full and make sure you have the right grade of fluid and that it has come from a freshly opened container, not one that has been used before NO-WAY! it goes "off" really quickly -

Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

You need to make sure you have an assistant. The assistant keep adding fluid and pumping the brakes while you operate the bleeder screws.

The procedure--LF,RF,LR,RR (left front, right front,etc). You are moving from the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder. Use an aquarium air hose (12 inch length), and a clear jar to catch the brake fluid. When no more bubbles escape through the hose, the caliper or cylinder is properly bled.

If the level drops below the LOW mark, air may reenter the system. Keep the reservoir full by checking after each bleed!