Accord 91 nostart cranks spark at plugsNo fuel coming from injectors pressure at fuel rail. code 14humming sound fromeckey turned to on position.already replaced main fuel relay coil dis cap and rotor

If cleaning the injectors got it running and not it won't start I'd look at something contaminating the injectors, try recleaning again and see if it starts, if it does clean the fuel system

If you have at least 40# of pressure to the rail, spark, compression, and the engine is in time...that only leaves one thing. Fuel injectors. I believe that the signal to fire the injectors comes form the crank sensor to the ECU

Why?

You turn the key on

Fuel is pumped to the fuel rail under pressure

Once you have a crank signal, the injectors pulse
& blow out any air into the cylinders,then just fuel

You need to be more detailed in what YOU TESTED SO FAR
& HOW

Do you have Spark?
Is the Fuel Pump coming on?
Is there 40 # or more on the fuel rail?

Timing Belt or Chain turning the cams?

Be more explicit.
How the spark plugs looks like? Are them black?

For a no start , cranks over ok. be sure you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, before checking the injectors. There should be more that 40 psi at the rail... if not .. you might have a fuel pump problem. Even if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail... the next thing I would check for,,, is spark !! Make sure you have spark at the spark plugs. The order would be... fuel pressure first and then spark , , then injector pulse. !! Then plugged exhaust.... then bad fuel then engine timing. The injectors have power to them all the time. The PCM controls the ground to the injectors. So you would have to monitor the ground side of the injectors. So checking injectors is kinda complicated. Hope this helps you. Good luck.

So pull a spark plug wire,carefully, and stick a long thin screw driver into the open end, be gentle, hold the screwdriver about a half inch away from the engine valve cover, and have yer buddy crank it ,do you see a blue spark? Ok if you did see the spark, then that system is functioning. If not then its the ignition system. Next at the end of your fuel rail look for the tire valve looking thingy, and turn the key on an then off, take the little plastic cap off of the thingy(Schrader valve) and in the middle of it you see a small pin, push that pin in and if it squirts out fuel with some pressure then you have fuel pressure, if not, check the fuel pump fuse, and the relay, pump.

If you think there is fuel pressure just because the fuel pump kicks in, you might not actually have pressure. The fuel pressure regulator could be shot which would cause the fuel to go right through the fuel rail and back into the tank. So make sure you use an actual fuel pressure gauge to test that and rule out the pressure regulator...just had to make sure you did that.

If you do in fact have fuel pressure, spark, and compression, then the issue is either your timing or that the fuel is not getting inside cylinder. Timing fix is obvious, the issue with your fuel could be clogged injectors, bad injectors, or the injectors are just not getting the signal to fire. The latter is the most likely. Use a mechanics stethescope and hold it to one of the injectors and listen for a clicking sound when your cranking the engine over. You can pick one up at harbor freight or sears. You could also take a screwdriver and hold it against the injector and press your ear against the handle. However, if the engine shakes while you crank it you might have a very bruised ear...try explaining that one to your friends. If the injectors are not firing, the resistor pack is probably bad. The resistor pack is that thing on the drivers side of the engine compartment with the heat sink on it. Pick up a new one from a junk yard if you want to save a few bucks. That should fix your problem though.

There is a sensor under the left hand side of the dash that would not allow it to start, provided that you have replaced the electronic spark module inside the distributor first, which is what it sounds like it would be, When you say you replaced the distributor I assume you replaced it complete!

The cylinders are numbered as on the spark pack you changed. You might have done better putting the seafoam in the tank as an injector cleaner. Not sure why you changed so many parts, you seem to know how to get the codes from test connector lead hookup and the blink pattern. You might also want to check the fuel rail pressure and the crank and cam angle sensors. Before replacing the injector, swap the #4 injector with the adjacent one and see it the code moves with the injector or stays put. If the code stays on #4, then check the injector wiring, if it moves clean or replace the injector.

hi unlikley to computer on the fuel rail there is a pressure relief control valve some are operated by vacuum so check the hoses some are electrical this controls fuel to all injectors it may be open all the time and fuel going straight to the return to the tank if this is the case there is no pressure for the injectors to work the individual injectors you can buy a tool that fits on the injector and connecting loom thats not dear so it lights flash as the pluses open the injectors or get a multi meter the wires that fit on the injector one is ground usually [black or brown] and the other is a 5v live when cranked yates210456