Tip & How-To about Nissan Altima

2002 Altima, jerking when driving, ABS kick in, ABS. Tracking Control and Slip lights

My 2002 Altima Sometime the ABS kick in even though in a nice sunny dry road condition, sometime jerking when driving (doesn't matter high or low speed), sometime ABS. Tracking Control and Slip lights all on at the same time.

I did a lots of research over the internet, not much firm solution I can find. A lot of tech suggest the ABS sensor, MAF sensor, Spark plugs and/ or wires, Fuel injectors, Cad converter, etc. but no one know what is the exact problem is because it only happened intermittently.

But if I unplugged one of the ABS sensor, the ABS system will disable, the ABS. Tracking Control and Slip lights will all turn on, but the car have no more jerking and ABS kick in problem. So it will not be the MAF sensor, Spark plugs and/ or wires, Fuel injectors, Cad converter, etc.

To diagnostics and replaced a ABS sensor are very expensive, especially everyone said, when removed the sensor, 99% of the time the blot will break, it need a lots of time to get the remaining bolt back out, that is one of the reason which causing the repair cost so expensive, take up to $300 to 400 to change one sensor.

I am going to show you how to replace both sensor in a very cheap way.

Most of the forum I found and the majority possible problem cause are the rear ABS sensors. Not quite sure left or right, so I went to the Pick and Pull yard to bought a used pair of rear ABS sensors, it cost me CND$30.00, $15.00 each. Way cheaper than you take it out to just get diagnostic.

Follow the sensor wire and plug to replaced both sensors. My car run perfect now, no more jerking, no more ABS kick in by no reason, no more warning light turn on anymore.

Now comes to the biggest problem, when I removed the old sensor, I knew the bolt was going to broke. How can I re-tighten it back? No problem, just let it broke.

This is the way how I fix it: cut a piece of solid electrical wire, about 7 inch long, peel off the wire skin, I only need the copper wire (because copper wire is rust and heat proof).
Unscrew both bigger wheel bearing screws beside the sensor.
Bend the copper wire wrap around the screws, the middle of the wire need to put it through to hold down the back side of the sensor, when tighten the screws back, both screws will tighten the wire and hold down the sensor.

It is very hard to explain , I am going to attach some pictures to show everyone. Basically, with the tax I use around $32.00 to fix the problem.

Sorry about the last picture is quite fuzzy, it is hard to let my camera to get it focus properly, but you should be able to see it.

Because I already did mine, so I just use another screws to show everyone in the pictures how to do it. Also sorry for my English, hope every can understand what I mean.


Cut a wire around 7 inch long.

Peel off the wire skin, only need a solid copper wire

Bend it and wrap around the screw (in clockwise direction because it will be tighten in the same direction), cut the excessive length of wire if need

After bend will be in S shape.

Will mount it back to the car like that.

Finished, when tighten both screws, it will hold the sensor down tight.

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are there damage to any 4wheel drive components shifting from 4wheeldrive setting still with transmission is indrive

Most 4WD systems are designed to be shifted in and out "on the fly". It is less stressful for the drive train doing it while in park however. 4WD does not like cornering - especially on "grippy" surfaces such as dry asphalt (why would you need 4WD on dry asphalt, anyway?). Dry asphalt is really tough on 4WD as the the tires may have minute differences in circumference as a result of wear and since all are spinning at the exact speed (even going straight ahead), those difference add up and strain the drive train. Slippery surfaces allow the tires to slip away those differences as soon as they begin to appear. Even wet pavement allows this to happen, tho not as easily as grass, dirt, snow or ice.

Drive in a tight, complete circle on dirt and you'll see that there's a shorter path of tracks for the inside tires than those on the outside. Yet, the 4WD locks all wheels to turn the same amount. The jerking during the cornering that you're feeling is the inside tires trying to spin to "catch up" to turning at the same rate as the outer tires. See the video linked below.

Check your manual and you'll likely be cautioned against running 4WD on dry pavement for these reasons.


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abs light flashes and i fill it in my brake peddle sometimes it's like my abs is kicking in.

When the warning light comes on it should store a trouble code in the computer.
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abs light is on . brakes work just fine and the fluid is full

Hello, lets test that BMW M5 ABS braking system, OK. First, drive down a street with no traffic. Speed up to 30 to 40 MPH. Then slam on your brakes hard, if the brake petal is pulsating and there a noise like clunk,clunk,clunk,clunk noise. Your BMW ABS is working. If not, then the BMW ABS isn't working.


ABS system and what it does to your BMW. All it amount to is it doesn't lock up the braking system. It just applied the brake and release in micro seconds. This keep the vehicle from sliding side ways on wet roads, snowy roads, icy roads or even on dry roads. In other words, it keeps the front of the BMW in a straight line.



If your BMW ABS isn't do this, you'll need to have the ABS braking system serviced. GB...stewbison
Sep 14, 2011 • 2002 BMW M5
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