Why does my the rear end of my car shake at highway speeds?

If you put new rotors you need new brakes as well the other thing to check is the inner and outer tie rods to do that get the front tires off the ground grab the front and back of the tire on the tread have someone look at the inner and outer tie rods as you move the tire back and forth if the tie rod does not move it is wore out you can also look at the sway bar pins and make sure that they are not broken

a good thing to check would be your inner and outer tie rod ends. if they are going bad they will cause a lot of shaking in the car and will also cause the front end to be out of a lined which will make your tires wear faster and uneven

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Control are bushing's ,ball joints ,

Looseness in the front end or a tread separation in the tire. This is extreme but you get the idea if there is a bulge near the side of the tire even a tiny one

What you describe is most often caused by a bad tie-rod end, which is part of your steering. This causes the clunking that you feel when you turn, and the tire wear.
Jack up the front drivers side and when the wheel is off the ground, try to force it left and right. If you feel any play in it, a tie rod end is bad.
To find out if it is the inner or outer tie rod end, look underneath and locate the tie rod for that wheel- it will look like a pole about an inch thick. Get somebody to move the wheel left and right like you did, and look on either end of the tie rod for which end is moving. That will be your bad tie rod end. The "outer" is the one by the wheel- the other one is the "inner". Most often it is the outer tie rod end that goes bad.
It is important to get a bad tie rod end replaced as soon as possible because it can separate and cause you to lose control of your car when the wheel will suddenly turn either in or out, depending on which way you are steering when it fails. After a tie rod end is replaced, your car will need an alignment to set the adjustment correctly. If you are changing it yourself, mark how far the old one is threaded in so your alignment will be fairly close to where it was.
Good luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

to check the tie rods you jack up the front of the car. Place your hands at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions on the tire. Push/pull on the tire. If you feel movement than look carefully at the out tie rod while you push or pull and see if it moves. If it does it is bad if it doesn't than the inner toe rod is bad. PYou will not be able to do the inner tie rod without some specialty tools.

The outer tie rods can be replaced by removing the tire, loosen the jam nut that holds the inner tie rod tight to the outer tie rod, removing the cotter pin (if it has one) from the tie rod end, remove the nut that secures the tie rod end to the knuckle, Hit the knuckle with a hammer where the tie rod goes through the knuckle until the tie rod comes loose from the knuckle (do not strike the tie rod end), remove the tie rod end from the knuckle and unscrew from inner tie rod counting the number of turns it takes to remove, install the new one using the same amount of turns.

After putting it back together you'll need to grease the new tie rod ends if equipped with grease zerks and have the car aligned.

The O2 sensor unthreads from the exhaust manifold as you thought. It will require an O2 socket which is a 7/8" socket with an opening down the side for the wiring harness to go through. you should be able to purchase the socket from the parts store that you purchase the O2 sensor at. DO NOT GET A UNIVERSAL FIT OR CHEAP AFTERMARKET BRAND, this will cause more problems and more money than just getting a good quality sensor from a reputable supplier or straight from the dealer.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

#3 is the inner tie rod and it is simply screwed into each end of the steering rack. Raise and support the car remove the wheel and you should see where it is connected to the outer tie rod. There is a lock nut that you'll need to loosen slightly to get the tie rod off. You will need to get a wheel alignment once done but by slightly loosening the lock nut, you have a good reference of how it should be once done. Once loose, you should be able to turn the tie rod by using a wrench on the flattened area on the rod. Once disconnected from the outer tie rod end, you should be able to remove the dust boot covering the inner tie rod connection. Mine came right apart so hope you have no problems. After you have it out, here is where the loosened locknut comes into play. Put the new and old tie rod side by side, line up the ends that attach to the rack and pinion then mark the new rod so you know how far to put the lock nut on the new tie rod. Simply tightly screw the new one onto the rack and pinion put the boot back, screw on the lock nut to the mark then attach the tie rod to the outer tie rod end up to the lock nut then tighten the lock nut against the outer end. Get the tire back on, lower the car and Voila, done. Now go get an alignment.

Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book

you must remove or slide the inner tie rod boot outward on the rod and then thread the tie rod out of the steering rack. there is a section of the tie rod on the inside of the ball joint that has flat spots to get a open end wrench onto. to check your tie rods, simply jack the wheel off of the ground, grab the either side of the tire, and wiggle it towards and away from you. if you feel any play at all the tie rods must be replaced. also a god indication is when the front tires start to wear excessivly on the inside or outside edges.

as for the cv axle, it has a retainer ring on the end of the splined shaft. all thats reqired is to seat the splines in the transaxle (transmission) and the tap (shouldnt take too much) the outer end of the axle with a mallet or hammer. it will pop into place.

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