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The guage needs to read between 35/40 psi.. If its much higher you may be overfull, this causes it to not cool.. Fix by letting some freon out, then top it back to needed pressure.. If pressure is correct, it would be a clog in the system.. Usually an orafice tube or accumulator..good luck!
the best suggestion is to give up on replacing compressor clutches and have the system done by an accredited ac specialist shop
excessive pressure from excessive gas is hydraulicing the compressor and making the clutch slip burning it out
next flushing the system removes all of the compressor oil in the system leaving the compressor running virtually dry
next when a system is opened , moisture laden air gets in and that has to be vacuumed out for a period of 2 hours minimum or the water in the air turns to ice and blocks the tx valve
freon gas ( if that the gas that is supposed to be used as many now run r134a) is inserted ,not by the can but by the low pressure and high pressure readings on a manifold gauge designed for that purpose
I would say that by now you would have spent more money than what it would have cost you at the ac specialist shop
i believe that the compressor is locking up intermittently and or the clutch has disentigrated the bearings on the compressor i would replace the compressor or get a replacement pulley until you have enough time to afford it
My lincoln had the same issue, first it was the A/C compressor (original). I replaced it with another one (used) and worked for 1 month. Then back to hot air. "A/C experts" told me the compressor was out again. I took it to a Mexican auto shop, old building where the guy works alone and to my surprise...HE FOUND THE PROBLEM!! There was no freon leaks, the lines were freezing cold inside the motor, checked freon>>full. He then checked the filter. This filter is on the end of the line where it is crimped that allows the freon to flow thru. Im no mechanic so explaining what it is, forgive me. I can only show you...the line is silver ad in front of you by the radiator, and its the same tube that goes to where you plug it to add freon. There is a filter that was clogged up and prevented the freon from flowing. He removed all the freon, vacuumed out the system/line, and replaced the filter for less that $3.00. Added freon and his cost was $80.00. Thank God for honest people who work hard for a living. I buy the parts, he replaces and I continue to give him my business. Other expensive auto shops with fancy buildings/prices My Lincoln Mark LT now blows arctic cold air!!!
You have to remember, your A/C system is a sealed system. If there are contaminates in the system, where did they come from? The only moving part is the Compressor. You might be able to get by for a little while with just changing the orifice tube, or expansion valve and recharging the system. But inevitably you will need to change the compressor. Anytime you install a new compressor you will need to change the orifice tube or expansion valve and the accumulator. Dryer. You will also need to have the evaporator core and condenser flushed out. While I have a system open I also change the o-rings at all fittings. This will ensure many years of trouble free operation.
Not really. The orifice tube could be gummed up with debris from the compressor. The tube is inside one of the lines going to the condenser. Can you trace the cold line to see if it goes from the compressor to the evaporator ?
If the compressor cycles (turns on and off) frequently, and the AC is just cool, then you are likely low on freon. Did you evacuate (pull a vacuum) the system before charging it with freon? This will also cause your problem. The orifice tube is located within a high pressure hose near the radiator or the firewall. Look for diameter size differences in the lines at connections.