The cable is seized, they all do this at near 150k miles.
replace it ,its cheap and easy and avoids 3 other expensive repairs.
the wheel slave cylinder is bad, or line rusted through. replace them.
replace that, which leaks...
if the cable is bad, the fire wall cracks.
or the pedal lever spline strips
not how there are many cables. for different bodies
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html
the fluid can leak at the slave cylinder or any lines there, it take direct looking to find where. remove the drum so see if the fluid is brake fluid or the axle bearing is leaking GL5 gear lube.(stinks bad) just did my axle and can show all steps. the drum has 4 bolts. holding it in place up to 1991.
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SOURCE: four wheel drive will not work on 1995 geo tracker
You need to take the cover off your hub and clean and grease the lock ring. It is attached to the spring. It sounds as though your hub is rusted open.
SOURCE: White smoke coming from my 95 Geo tracker,
most deffinately an internal issue. 2 possible problems oil seeping through valves when engine not running. sitting in combustion chamber and burns off during start up. 2 piston rings in one or more cylinders bad and letting oil blow by and start up is only time it is really noticeable.
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SOURCE: Geo tracker wont shift after clutch and clutch cable replaced
this is common.
it is caused because NO ON ever changes the cable at 100k miles.
it then wears a groove inside the cable and jams where you cant see.
(got my car dirt cheap cuz no one could figure this out)
the next thing to happen (toss coin) is the fire wall cracks or the clutch pedal spline strips.
full story here,
http://www.kick-fix.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html
now you know the why , so now correct all the damaged caused by a $45 cable.
all parts are at suzuki , every single one.
SOURCE: need torque setting for 1993 geo tracker front
i1m sorry to say that wheel bearings are not set to a torque specification, when you have repacked the bearings [ inner and outer ] ,reassembled it ,take the nut up until thewheel starts to drag and not turn very far when you try to spin it spin it backward and forward several times,grab the top of the wheel and try to push it in and out,if you getany movement at all tighten the nut a couple of castilations. do it all over again, spinthe wheel a few times and then try for the crossways movement again, if there is no movement ,you are very close to being right....................now comes the experience bit , iwould take it one more castilation of the nut because i know the feel that is need ed,,without that i suggest you put the pin in where you ereput the cap on and go for a 5 minute drive . whenyou get back ,jack it up and thespinning of the wheel again and try for the top crossways movement ,if there is any tighten thenut 2 castilations, and provided that when you try to spin the wheel by hand with a reasonably strong push the wheel should trael about 6 inches at least after your hand leaves it ,it is now a close as you are going to get itput it all to gether and for the next day or so put yor hand on the grease cap after you have driven anydistance, and you will feel it is warm but you should be able tohold your hand on the grease cap. there you have it ,any questions come back."youdoit"
SOURCE: 1995 4x4 geo tracker front wheel bearings
first you remove the wheel then the break caliper then remove the locking hubs just remember to lay out the parts in order a special tool is called for but this job can be done without it you have to use a small cold chisel and a hammer to tap the large nut counter clockwise to remove, you can then remove the outer bearing and the rotor and hub assembly look on the back side reomve the bearing seal and inner bearing be sure to pack your new bearings with grease before you reassemble . takes less than an hour.
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