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Re: I have a dome 22 inches in diameter and 4.25 inches...
Can it be inverted?
If it can I would measure carefully and place an "X" across it to find the exact center. Then I would tie a sewing needle to a piece of string attached to a paperclip to act as a plumb-bob to indicate the center after making sure it is completely level.
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It is located on the left side of the transmission about half way up the body toward the output end. Has a wire clip attatched and looks similar to a coolant sensor. (about 3/4 inch diameter and a couple inches tall)
The easiest way to get in there is to use a hole saw about four inches in diameter and drill a hole about six inches up from the bottom of the liner and about six inches towards the drivers side from the center. (one hole, two measurements). You can then reach in and release the latch by pulling on the control rod that goes between the handle and the latch itself..After you have gotten in there, it's easy to find a new liner in most scrapyards (cheap) or to make a cover for the hole you made. Most latches on those rust up and can usually be worked free using wd40 or other solvent and a bit of patience. Also, the control rod sometimes falls off the clip retainer and needs to be secured better.
Loosing that much could only be the oil pressure sending unit. They blow out. I don't know where yours is exactly, but they are usually on the top, center of the engine in the very back. About three inches long and have a base about 1 1/4 inches in diameter.
There is 3 marks on the timing chain, 2 are exactly 16 links apart and
the other is 22 from either of the 2. The engine should be at top dead
center. Line the 2 (16 apart) marks with marks on your cam gears and the
3rd with your crank gear. Torque cam bearings to 100 inch lbs.
The freeze plugs are round, about 2 inches in diameter, and tend to be along the mid part of the engine casting. Sometimes one in front and/or in back as well. They are domed out when installed, and by flattening the dome with a hammer, they expand. If they leak, (usually more from rust then freezing), they can be removed by drilling a hole in the middle, threading a screw in the hole, and using a claw hammer or pry bar to restore the dome. Or you can just chisel it in half if you need to. But don't nick the edges too much. Use sealer on the new on. They sell replacements with a nut in the center, that caused it to flatten and widen when tightened, so you don't need to use a hammer. There usually is not room for that when the engine is in the car.
I've ran into this problem before with another jeep. What happens is the condensation drain line from the evaporator housing gets plugged with the material that insulates the housing and the water can't drain and seeps through the seems and drips on the passenger side floor. Chrysler did at one time sale a plug kit for this. What you would do is drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the housing on the left hand side near the bottom and put a stiff piece of wire in it to unplug the drain line and then plug the hole with the plug kit from chrysler. just when your drilling the hole make sure you don't drill into the evaporator core or your freeon will leak out as well. I'm not exactly sure how far from the bottom to drill the hole if I remember right it is 2 inches just about center. Chrysler did have a service bulletin on this you may want to ask them when you see bout the plug kit.
Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05.
CAUTION: Prior to removing center pins from the rivet, it is recommended that a suitable block support be inserted between door outer panel and glass bracket to stabilize glass during rivet removal. Remove center pin from each rivet with a drift punch. Using a 1/4-inch diameter drill, drill out remaining rivets as damage to plastic glass retainer and spacer could result.
Remove two rivets attaching glass to run and bracket assembly.
Remove drillings and pins from bottom of door.
Snap plastic retainer and spacer into two glass retainer holes. Make certain that metal washer in the retainer assembly is on outboard side of glass.
Insert glass into door.
Position glass to glass bracket. Install two rivets to secure glass to glass bracket.
NOTE: Two 1/4-inch-20 x 1-inch bolts and two 1/4-inch-20 nut and washer assemblies may be used as alternates for glass retention. However, torque must not exceed 4-7 Nm (36-61 lb-in). Equivalent metric retainers (6mm) may be used.