Question about Oldsmobile Cars & Trucks
Yes,begin with the basics;
INSPECT BATTERY ELECTROLYTE LEVEL
INSPECT BATTERY CABLES/TERMINALS
LOAD TEST BATTERY
TEST ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
Posted on May 01, 2015
After the battery and cables, look for either main fuse burned out or a fusible link burned out. Usually from the + terminal you have a big red cable that goes to the starter. Attached to the big red cable is a smaller (but still big) red cable that goes to the fuse/relay box. If you have a fusible link, it is in the smaller red cable. If you have a main fuse it is in the fuse/relay box.
Posted on May 01, 2015
Start with battery condition and charge. Is the battery in good working order. Are the battery cables clean and tight?
Posted on May 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try replacing the Flasher first before spending to much money for a possible simple fix. If it's not your flasher then it could be the turn signal leaver.
Ok, this may seem stupid, but that's what they did to the blazer. They set the flasher near the middle and under the center console behind the radio.
It's to the left of the radio right behind the dash. The hazard flasher and the turn signal flasher are side by side. It right next to the Cig lighter behind the panel. They do mark the turn signal from the hazard flasher on the plastic behind them. Turn is on the right.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Posted on May 02, 2009
There'll be a unit under your dash near the steering column called the electronic flasher module that controls your blinkers and hazards. Sounds like the module broke
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
Try under the dash, attached to colum is a switch that the rod goes into from your ignition key switch, that may need to be adjusted tword your steering wheel just a touch, they go out of alignmnet from time to time
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
SOURCE: Blinker issues
These are two seperate issues:
the light staying on solid green indicates a bulb blown at either the front or rear, this could also be a bad ground connection but usually is a bulb issue. If you replace the bulb, be sure to use bulb grease to seal our moisture.
As far as the signal arm returning to neutral and cancelling the signal, that is controlled by a part within the steering wheel itself, and could just be worn. It's a Plastic/Nylon piece that pushes the signal arm manually when you turn the steering wheel sufficiently. That would be a dealer part, or something purchased from a salvage vehicle.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
You have problem with the FLASHER; the flasher is located in the
Junction Block (under the dash, left of steering wheel. See diagram on this page). Check the following repair tip:
Look at the end of the flasher relay with the prongs sticking out. There will be 2 plastic tabs holding it together. Break or bend these back. Pull out the insides. On one side will be all the components. On the other side will be solder joints. Get a magnifying glass and inspect these joints. One or two will probably have stress cracks. Just dab a little flux on this joint and heat it with a soldering iron until it melts back together.
You may need to add just a little solder. Be sure to get the pins hot and not just the solder. They need a lot of heat. Slide the relay back into its cover, dab a little super glue or tape it back together, and you're ready to go.
WJ Junction Block (under dash, left of steering wheel)
Check the Fuse 4, 15AMP for Flasher, hazard switch (see Junction Block diagram above for location of turn signal Flasher relay - Mopar p/n 4686094).
Hope this solve it (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
Testimonial: "Quick with the answer and good info. Thanks much for the help! :)"
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