Question about 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse
Test for correct fuel pressure.
Posted on Apr 29, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My 98 Cherokee was the exact same. I used to have to turn the key back and forth 3 times and then it would start. Otherwise it would just crank and crank for a while and then start. Pretty embarrassing! Took it to the dealer and they said that my fuel pump was losing pressure. I changed the fuel pump and I don't have to prime the pump anymore.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 chevy s10 2.2l no
The s10 have a fuel shut off relay to shut off fuel supply in case of an accident. They also have a anti-theft system that prevents fuel in case of theft.Pull the fuel line off and crank the engine to see if you get fuel. Sorry I can't be of more help but without hands on vehicle it is hard to tell.Also your fuel pump maybe sounding like it is pumping. In other words it may be running but not pumping fuel it mat have a ruptured diaphragm in the pump.The pump is running but not pumping fuel. Pull the fuel line off at the fuel filter and turn on ignmition or crank the engine you should have about 50PSI coming out.If you don't install new fuel pump.These vehicles are common for this problem the fuel pump runs but does not pump fuel or not enough pressure these vehicle require 57 PSI to start if it has less than 51PSI it will not start unless you use starting fluid then it will run.It will run with less fuel pressure it will just not start with less than 57PSI.
Hope this helps
Posted on May 04, 2011
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This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.
My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is loctated under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions.
First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.
For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.
The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner www.repairpath.com
All the best
Posted on Jun 15, 2011
have diagnostic codes checked to see if you have a cam or crank sensor fault. make sure fuel pressure is at the required pressure, just testing to see if you have fuel at the valve is not enough. replace all spark plug wires. if you replaced two then all are just as old and even when they "look good" does not qualify as "they are good". Replace coil pack. start up drive away happy
Posted on Sep 05, 2011
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