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Engine dies when you close choke.Runs only with choke open.

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Clean carb

Posted on Apr 29, 2015

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1 Answer

Choke problem


Replace the chock thermostat. When the engine is cold, the choke is in closed position to restrict airflow and give rich fuel mixture to combustion chamber. As engine area warms up, the choke thermostat gradually opens air passage to increase air flow to combustion chamber, resulting in leaner fuel mixture. The choke is in "full open" while the engine is cold, resulting in lean mixture, causing the engine to die unless you add more throttle to increase fuel mixture.

Nov 29, 2013 | Mitsubishi Pajero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Sputters and dies on cold start, significant drop in gas mileage.


You need to rebuild the carburetor or clean the choke linkage and make sure the choke valve closes cold.

Nov 12, 2013 | 1985 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

1985 Ford Bronco 2 choke plate not closing


The choke butterfly (choke plate as you call it) can only be partially closed when the engine is cold. It is used to create a low pressure under in the throat of the carby which causes excess fuel into the engine when cranking and early running to help warm up and to prevent the carby icing up. After a few minutes the butterfly will be fully open and remain that way while the engine is at operating temp. As to the engine stopping down the road look for another fault -- Like incorrect fuel cap on tank , blocked fuel filter, dirty air filter If the engine starts easily and runs I doubt that the fault will be in the carby.

May 04, 2013 | 1985 Ford Bronco II

1 Answer

Car starts but wants to die out right away have to play with the gas padle


A 1986 Mustang with a 4 cyl engine should have a carb and a choke. It sounds like the choke is not closing and-or the fast idle cam is not raising the idle speed until the choke opens.

Feb 02, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Acts like the choke is stuck closed it won't stay started and runs ruff until engine warms up then its fine. What do i do?


Well the choke has an electric part that heats up and makes the choke open in a few minutes. As soon as the engine starts the choke should open about 25 percent by way of a vac pull-off.
You can take the air cleaner off and watch the choke while someone starts the engine cold. If the choke does not open after it starts, check the choke pull-off. You can also open the choke with a screwdriver to see if the engine clears up.

Jan 29, 2013 | 1987 Chevrolet Caprice

1 Answer

My mazda 323 astina 1994 is automatic and carburetor type. If I start the engine in the morning it runs ok but if I switch to drive right away the idle drops down and the engine dies. But if I wait for 5...


With a carby the problem will occur because the engine is trying to work when you place it in drive and go nowhere ( same as putting a brake on the crankshaft). Use more choke or set the auto choke to run slightly faster. IE close the throttle butterfly more to increase engine speed. It all has to do with the fuel trying to evaporate in the carby and icing up the working bits and you need extra fuel to overcome this problem for a short term

Jan 12, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

84 ford f150 carburetor was rebuilt runs great when cold kicks and bucks when warm have to stomp on throttle to get to go


Sounds as if your choke is hanging up, or not opening at all. With the engine warm remove the air cleaner, there is a butterfly valve right inside the top of the carburetor If this is closed or mostly closed your choke needs to be adjusted. There are manual and electric chokes, yours should be an electric choke. First with engine cold and the key turned to on check for voltage at the choke wires. If you have voltage, then you might just need to adjust your choke. Electric chokes heat up an element inside the choke to tighten a spring and open the choke butterfly valve at the top of the carburetor. There should be between 4 and 5 screws that hold a ring around the choke housing on the side of the carburetor with the wires going to it. While holding the round choke housing in place loosen all of the screws on the retaining ring. If you can feel the choke housing wanting to spin turn it the opposite way that it wants to turn. Do this in stages until your choke butterfly valve is open with the key turned on, or the engine warm. Hope this helps if you have more questions just ask.

Jun 18, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I just rebuilt my F-150 1 barrel Carter carb (1985)once started runs great under all power ranges.Problem? Hard to start.


should adjust the butterfly to about 3/8" opening at 50 degrees farenheit when engine is cold. Usually about 1 mark to the lean side on the choke spring housing. If unsure set the choke to the center mark than richen up one mark at a time until the engine starts and idles up when cold after properly setting choke by fully depressing and releasing the accelerator before cranking. If it doesn't idle up enough turn up the fast idle screw 1/2 turn at a time. Another common problem with the YFA is the choke heat riser tube rusting off at the manifold and the choke not unloading when the engine warms. Install a new riser tube after using a drill bit the same diameter as the tube to drill out the remainder of the old tube in manifold before inserting the new tube and attaching to choke housing.

Aug 04, 2010 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer

87 325 runs good when


It's the automatic choke!

The choke is "closed" or barely open... When cold, the engine needs a RICH mixture (more gasoline, less air). When the engine warms up, it requires a LEAN mixture (less gas, more air).

It is probably creating BLACK tailpipe smoke ... that means unburnt gasoline. (Blue smoke is OIL, white smoke is WATER).

Put the parking / emergency brake ON.
1. Remove air cleaner assembly from intake, use a carb cleaner spray or throttle body spray cleaner and spray just a little. (AutoZone $5)
2. Find the accelerator2.gif arm under the hood.
3. start car, rev the engine to make sure how to operate the accelerator from under the hood.
4. Carefully spray into carb / throttle body and work the accelerator ... don't let the engine die...
5. Watch out for "backfire"... it may create a small flame out of the carb. It will extinguish itself in one second.

6. You may need to do this two, three times.
7. Add a "complete fuel system2.gif cleaner" to your next tank of gas ($8).

That's it! ... pretty cheap, too.

Hope this helps!

Sep 04, 2009 | 1987 BMW 3 Series

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