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Unable to drive without choke pulled out,no idle

New plugs,electronic unit,coil,adaptor carb to manifold

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Your failure to provide fixya experts with the needed info,i,e,;make,model,year,exactly what the nature of the problem is,can get you all kinds of answers,we deal with 1,000's of questions without the needed info on a daily basis,if you expect a good reply then give the needed info!!!,,,

Posted on Apr 29, 2015


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Have a Poulan PR208 Stormforce snowblower that quits after 2 or 3 minutes.

Chcek stuck or loose choke flaps and integrity of carb manifold gasket. Check the ignition coil cable (connected to the spark plug). The kill switch wires should not any crack that may touch the chassis ground.

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Two things come to mind,on your holley did you put fenalic spacer plate between the carb and the intake manifold? OK maybe i shouldn't have used the term fenalic but I mean a spacer or adapter plate between the carb and intake manifold. Any ways I've found that a lot of times the gaskets that goes under the adapter plate and the intake manifold leak and you will have a severe vacuum leak. There's a couple of easy ways to check. Just feel under the edge of the plate and see if you can feel a leak or you can use some starting fluid and with car running of course for this and the first test anyways with the car running spray around the carb and intake manifold and if the engine speeds up or just smoothes out then you have a leak. Or with the 650 cfm double pumper does it have a manual or electric choke. Because either way your choke may need to be adj

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Engine idles excesivly high after carb was rebuilt.

You need a new choke pull off. They are around $30 dollars.

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My 1984 polo will not idle without the choke out.

you could try the air filter, but if not that check oil condition and level. if it is a milky colour then you mite have a leaking head gasket which could cost you quite a lot to have repaired

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I am familiar with these, a manual choke carb works off of a bimetal coil in the manifold exhaust crossover on the passenger side of the intake, Make sure it is hooked up, then while the car is cold, on the rockchester carbs, use an 1/8 in drillbit to set choke. You have to loosen the three screws on the choke to set, when the choke flap, the very top one on the carb touches the drillbit, set it there and lock down screws, pump once or twice and it should start and idle, as the bimetal coil heats up it should open the top flap. if you try to accelerate before it is wam it will disconnect from the auto choke. I hope this helps if not please do not rate me at all, if it does help you fix your problem then please give me a fixya,

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1981 ford f100 2wd

This sounds like a telltale choke issue. You running carburated right?
If it is what i think it is you have a choke thermostat on the carb. If so check the votage on the wire and if you have power then the choke thermostat has to be replaced. you can do a manual set of the choke behind the carb just to see if this is the problem.

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Hard start problem

I had the same problem right after installing a 45 DCOE on a stock 12A. The problem was the carburetor was not properly tuned. To tune it, refer to "Weber Carburetors", by Pat Braden, from HP Books. The main thing I had to do was adjust the idle mixture screws. Seat them lightly (screw them all the way down, but not tightly), then turn both of them out 3 and a half turns. Pull the choke and turn the key WITHOUT pumping the gas pedal. You may also need to adjust the idle speed screw, I've found that about 900 or 1000 rpms is a good idle speed for my particular aplication, but when I first started it with the Weber, I had it at 1500 rpm. It took me about a week of driving it and adjusting it to different settings to get it to run well with a reasonable idle speed. Good luck!

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