a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
Finish removing the tire.
Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
Install the New Upper Control Arm
Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
make sure to apply 5w-20 oil to caps prior to install. Also caps and journals are number so you do not install in wrong place. Starting with Righ side looking at pulleys from front, right side cam start with first cap on left being #1 then bolt on other side of cap as #2. Cap behind would be #3 to left then #4 bolt next to it. Keep tightening the next 2 caps behind them in same manner, then jump to front of cam to left side and tighten caps front to back. You should tighten to 10 Nm (89 lbs-in) with a torque wrench. Then you tighten left side head cam caps starting with the left side if looking at front pulleys. Start at front caps working to rear then jump to right side cam front to back. Tighten these caps at 8 nm (71 lb-in) using torque wrench. Also make sure if heads are bolted to block that cam pulley postion is the following: left side looking at pulleys------left pulley mark at 12 o'clock right pulley mark at 3 o'clock. Right side head looking at pulleys------- left side pulley at 9 o'clock and right side pulley at 12 o'clock. When I say clock postion that means using head where valve covers meet as your straight vertical postion.
It sounds like you have some loose lugnuts. Luckily, Your car should have all the tools to fix this right next to the spare tire. To see for sure, jack up that side of the car, following the instructions on stickers near the spare tire or in the owners manual. You will need to jack up that corner of the car, and use the lugnut wrench to tighten those nuts as tight as you can get them with that little thing. If this was the problem, you need to then drive the car to the nearest tire repair store and have them tighten those down for you. If you have a torque wrench, tighten them to 85 ft/lbs.
remove tire,loosen and remove caliper 2 bolts on rear side of caliper,usually a allen/torque wrench or a standard wrench if u got all 3 ur good,fully remove caliper disc slides right off studs,new caliper will be thicker,which requires the piston behind the pad to be moved in, u can use a large c lamp be very careful while tightening down on piston not to brake it usually lay something across the piston put the clamp on that piston must go in far enough to allow pad to slide over new disc good luck its easy and pretty self explanitory
Over tightening. They are probably using an impact wrench to tight the lugs because its the fastest way. Its not the right way though.
Here is what happens.
When the nuts are tightened, the studs will stretch. This tension holds
the wheels on to the rim. If you over tighten the studs you can damage
them and they could fail. The best approach is to use an impact
wrench to snug up the nuts. Then go back with a torque wrench and
tighten to the manufacturer specifications.(lug nut torque for your vehicle is 110 ft-lbs ) Next time you are having
your tires rotated or changed, make sure the mechanic uses a torque
wrench and the correct torque.