Question about 1998 GMC Jimmy
That engine is not known for head gasket problems.
I am guessing but you should take a serious look at the water pump. Are you losing coolant?
The water pump is not hard to change on that car but you should have a good set of metric and sae tools to work with. Wrenches sockets extensions etc...
Also make sure that there is not any scale rust deposits or scale in the water system. If its not clean metal, the deposits work as insulators and do not allow the water to carry away heat.
Buy some CLR (Calcium Lime Rust in the gray bottle at walmart or store) before you change the water pump. Drain all coolant, add CLR and fill with water. Bring up to temp while parked and add water as needed. The heat will cause the stuff to work better and it will disolve all the crap in the system and all the crevices of the system. Run the heater full blast because it will clean out your heater core also. (Ive done this on mine)
After running for 45 min to an hour to dissolve all the crap, open the pit cock on the bottom of the rad and let the water from the garden hose flow into the rad from up top while engine is running. You have to flush all the CLR out of the system. Let the water flush the entire system good till nothing but clean water remains in the engine. May take 15 to 30 min to get it all washed out.
turn off engine, drain water from pit cock on the bottom of rad.
Change your waterpump and make sure all hoses belts and gaskets are new. properly tighten and torque all bolts and tentioners.
Check instalation and prepare to add the new coolant.
Add your 2 to 3 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze water mix into the system till full.
Start engine and top off as air surfaces and level in rad drop due to the air coming out of the block.
Let vehicle come up to temperature and make sure system builds pressure with all caps in place. Check for leaks.
Only after you have verified its not overheating or displaying any problems should you take it for a test drive. Stick close to home. Use good judgement.
Posted on Apr 27, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Are you putting the thermostat in correctly? It it will not work backwards.
And to confirm that there isn't a different problem, take the thermostat out all together and see if it overheats.
Engine not fully warming up is not usually caused by the thermostat. Stats usually fail closed, not open.
You will want to check the water temperature sending unit or gauge after verify the water temperature with an external calibrated thermometer. You can attach and insulate the external thermometer to the housing where thermostat is located.
Reply back what you figure out. I will be happy to help you further.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
SOURCE: 98 gmc jimmy front hub
1. Put the vehicle in gear, apply the parking brake and break loose the driveaxle/hub nut with a socket and large breaker bar.
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support is securely on lackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut.
3. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way with wire. Remove the brake disc.
4. On models with four wheel ABS, trace the electrical lead for the wheel speed sensor along the upper control arm, then forward along the frame rail and unplug the electrical connector.
5. Remove the hub assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts. Remove the brake disc shield and wheel speed sensor assembly and set aside.
6. Tap the hub assembly from side-to-side to break it loose from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub assembly off the end of the driveaxle. Wrap the end of the driveaxle with a rag to prevent damaging it. If the hub is stuck on the splines on the end of the driveaxle, use a puller to free it.
7. Installation is reverse of removal process. Be sure to lubricate the driveaxle splines with multi-purpose grease, and tighten all of the fasteners to the proper torque.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Hi: Sounds to me like you tried to start the vehicle with something disconnected in the security system. If this is the case the solution is simple. Put key in ignition and turn to the on position, leave on for EXACTLY 30 minutes... then take key out, wait 5 minutes then start vehicle. Hope this helps... please rate suggestion... ty
Posted on May 21, 2009
THE STEERING COLUMN (DO NOT ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL AFTER THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT IS REMOVE, YOU WILL BREAK THE SIR COIL), WINDSHIELD MOLDINGS, AND DASH HAVE TO BE REMOVED FIRST. UNDER THE HOOD THE BLOWER RESISTOR, R/H INNER FENDER WELL, HEATER HOSES TO THE HEATER CORE AND SEVERAL NUTS AND BOLTS HOLDING THE HEATER PLENUM TO THE FIRE WALL INCLUDING THE HIDDEN BOLT UNDER THE BLOWER RESISTOR IN THE EVAPORATOR CORE AREA. THEN FINALLY THE BOLTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE TRUCK HOLDING THE PLENUM TO THE FIREWALL.
NO DISRESPECT INTENDED BUT IF YOUR NOT A TALENTED MECHANIC I WOULD FIND ONE OR HIRE ONE THAT CAN DO THE JOB FOR YOU. THIS IS QUITE INVOLVED FOR A NOVICE.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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