Question about 1992 GMC G2500

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1992 Gmc 4x4 2 piece drive shaft and u joints

I replaced the 3 U joints on the rear shaft. I made the mistake of not ear marking the shaft for positioning. I also changed the steady bearing. After putting it back together, I had a vibration so I took it out again and turned shaft 180. I lined shaft up as straight as I could but still have a vibration. It also seems to be making a grinding noise usually when slowing down or turning left. I also heard a squeaking noise. It sounds like the steady bearing is bad again . Almost like going over a rumble strip. It only happens once in a while, but if I put weight in the truck it gets a bit worse. Is it possible that the new steady bearing needs a shim? I'm pretty sure that the shaft is positioned right, I'm lost here

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Hello Jamiem, I would remove both driveshafts and flex each joint by hand. If any are hard to flex or make noise, you found your problem.

Posted on Apr 27, 2015

Testimonial: "No its all free to move nothing tight. I'm leaning toward a faulty bearing now. I can push up and down on the shaft and the rubber allows too much movement. It should be much tighter and stiffer than that"

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IF by pieces you mean "U" joints . They will only need replacing if they are show looseness in the joint or rust streaks coming out of the cross seals. The following are points that you have to be very careful off . The ears ( that part that holds the "U" joints) have to ne on the same plane on assembly . On a one piece tail shaft where the sliding spline goes into the back of the gear box that is not much of a problem but if you have a centre bearing then it is critical that you get it right. when you remove the flange from the shaft to replace the bearing the flange has to go back on in exactly the same plane as the joint at the front of the same shaft. That is to say if you place the shaft on a flat surface and the ear on the shaft is vertical then the flange ear has to be vertical as well. What it amounts to is that crosses go through a phase of speed up---slow down cycle and if you have the joints out of phase the cross of one end that is speeding up is not cancelled out by the other end which is slowing down. The end result will be a harmonic vibration the will start about 30mph get really bad at about 60mph and decrease as you go faster . Unfortunately it doesn't disappear just destroys the "U" joints and the shaft and diff and gear box bearings. There are sites on the net that have photos and diagrams that will show what I am trying to say ( hardie spicer u joints and shafts)

Jan 25, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced u joints on 1989 Montero rear drive shaft. Now drive shaft has vibration which peaks around 65 mph. Think I reassembled wrong or bad part(s)? Used Precision not OEM Mitsubishi u joints.


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It could be just a stiff u-joint. Did you check them for ease of movement after you put them in? They should flop around quite easily. You may have to take it back off and check. If they move stiffly, give the ear a sharp rap with a hammer on the inside to move them out a bit so the joint turns free.
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Well on a one piece shaft they are 90Deg so I would guess 90Deg on a two piece.If they are facing the same way it would be like turning a jump rope.All weight swings to the same side at the same time,rather than being off set.I usualy have it balanced at the same time as I replace the U-Joints.Well just my two cents.Hope it helps and good luck.

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1 Answer

How do you get the rear u-joint out of the drive shaft on 2005 chevy avalanche


It will need to be pressed out.

Universal Joint: Service and Repair
Nylon Injected Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - Nylon Injected Ring
^ Tools Required
- J 9522-3 U Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft as to which end is the transmission end and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1 1/8 inch) socket.
4. In order to shear the plastic retaining ring on the bearing cup, place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out
of the yoke ear.
5. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue to press the bearing cup out of the yoke.
6. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
7. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
8. Remove the cross from the yoke.
9. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke
in the same manner.
10. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for plastic.
11. Inspect the bearing cup bores in the yoke ears for burrs or imperfections.
12. Clean the remains of the sheared plastic bearing retainers from the grooves in the yoke.
13. The sheared plastic may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place and thus prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke.
3. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
4. Assemble the cross into the yoke so the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
5. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
6. Assemble the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
7. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
8. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for a free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang-up or binding, stop pressing, and inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
9. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing retainer groove clears the inside of the yoke.
10. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
11. Continue pressing until you can snap both retainers into place.
12. If seating the retainer is difficult, spring the yoke slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
13. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.



Universal Joint: Service and Repair
External Snap Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - External Snap Ring
^ Tools Required
- J. 9522-3 U-Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U-Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft in order to show which end connects to the transmission and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
4. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
5. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 inch) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 inch) socket.
6. Place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
7. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
8. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
9. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
10. Remove the cross from the yoke.
11. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke.
12. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke in the same manner.
13. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
14. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
15. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place o
prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
3. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
4. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
5. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
6. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
7. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
8. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
9. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
10. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
11. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
12. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

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1 Answer

98 gmc sonoma w 2 pc drive shaft 2wd noise from rear u joint and vibration at 40mph and up. have replaced u joints and carrier bearing. rear ball and socket were dry and rusty.


remove the rear shaft from a 1990 full size gmc van (g-van) make sure the one you select has the scew on sleeve at the front of the rear section of the shaft
this will be the right lenght
take the rear yolk off your old shaft cut of the ball socket now get the same u-joint your truck calls for and mount the rear yolk (the section of the shaft that bolts to your rear end) to the new shaft
this works ive done it
you eliminate 2 of the 4 u-joints and lighten up your shaft this releives strain on you tranny and rear end when these u-joints and ball bearings fail they cause the vibrations which ruin the rest of your drive train also you gain 10hp
i spent 300 bucks rebuilding the OEM shaft and got no where so for 25 bucks i did this

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1 Answer

Help on how to install u-joints in my 1998 gmc sonoma, two piece shaft, and center bearing


if you dont have the proper tools its best too just pull the drive shaft and take it too autozone and have them press the new ones in!!!

Apr 22, 2009 | GMC Sonoma Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

U-joint repalcement for 2001 yukon xl


Mark your drive shaft coincidenly with the rear axle and tranny. Remove drive shaft. Press out the old u joints and press in the new. You will need a torch for heat and a lot of patience. Have fun!

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