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What do I need to do to change out a oil pump on a 1997 ford explorer

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Posted on Apr 26, 2015


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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 79865 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Ford Explorer "Oil Change Required" light is still on after changing the oil


Oil Change Reset
A press of the OIL CHANGE RESET switch will allow you to
reset the oil life feature to 100% (or your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage). After you have the oil changed, you must execute
the following procedure. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch
and hold for five seconds as the M/C counts down for five
seconds. After a successful reset the Message Center will display
“OIL LIFE RESET TO 100%.” If you have established a
Personalized Oil Reset Percentage, the display will show that
percentage instead of 100%. To ensure accurate oil life
indicators, perform this reset procedure only after an oil change.
Your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage allows you to establish a
smaller oil change interval than the manufacturer’s
recommended interval. To establish your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage perform the following procedure:
1. Press and hold the OIL CHANGE RESET switch and press
the RESET switch while the display is still counting down
the 5 seconds to reset. The display will change to “START
2. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch until the displayed
percentage is the Personalized Oil Reset Percentage that you
desire. Your choices are 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%,
40% and 30%.

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: oil pressure

does the engine make any raddle noise when you start the engine. if not may just need oil presure sensor.

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ford Explorer Oil change rest message

Turn ignition on. Don't start the car. When the message shows up press setup. It will tell you to press reset to reset the oil life to 100 %.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: I need to change the oil pump in my *97 ford explorer

A story which may help those with low oil pressure problems:

OK, I know this problem is regarding replacing an oil pump, but I thought I'd let you know what happened to my 1997 Ford Explorer 5.0L V8 AWD oil pump, which may prevent you from having to remove the oil pump in the first place if low oil pressure is your symptom. (Apparently, replacing the oil pump in this model is a 20-40hr job, depending on your skill and familiarity.)

I was driving down the freeway in my recently purchased--like three months prior--used Explorer when my oil pressure suddenly dropped to zero. I immediately pulled over to the side of the road and had my SUV towed (on a flatbed, since it's AWD) to the nearest shop where they ran it for a few moments--it's loud w/o oil pressure--to verify no pressure at the pump and the galleys. They then removed the distributor to attempt to spin the oil pump directly. (The pump is powered off the distributor shaft.) Still no pressure. They quoted me nearly $2000 to replace the oil pump, since the engine needs to be removed to access it in the AWD model.

My ASE master mechanic (I used to be a mechanic in a former life, but found it more convenient--fewer bruised knuckles--just to pay someone else to do it) suggested I ask them to pull the oil pump drive shaft out with a magnet to check it, as the thin metal rods frequently snap on this model, so you can rotate the shaft from the distributor end, but it'll just spin freely without engaging the oil pump. Unfortunately, that also was not the problem.

So, I had it towed to storage, thinking I'll fix it myself when I get the chance. Yeah, right. It sits for a few years...

Finally, I had to deal with this thing, but by this time, my mechanic had passed away--God rest his soul--so I did my research and found another honest master mechanic who seemed to know his stuff, and I towed my explorer to his shop. He assumed nothing and dealt with this one possibility at a time, eliminating them each in turn. Fortunately, this guy had a fibre optic camera, which he fished through the oil drain plug to have a look. What he saw surprised even him.

In his many years as a mechanic, he'd never seen an engine so badly sludged up. It looked like it had never, ever had an oil change. (I had done one oil change in the time I owned it, and to be fair, it had been sitting for quite some time, but even the sitting doesn't explain what was in the oil pan...)

He had to use a strong solvent cleaner treatment and subsequent oil change several times to free up the oil pickup screen enough to get any oil to flow through the screen. As a tip, he fabricated a tool to blow compressed air past the screen to force the sludge and hardened varnish, which was glued onto some parts of the screen, off the screen and out of the engine. Over each successive cleaning/oil change, less and less gunk/hardened crud came out. Eventually, after spinning the oil pump drive shaft for 5 or 10 minutes, he was able to momentarily get an oil pressure reading, indicating the oil pump was indeed working. It took a few more rounds of cleaning and oil changes to get reliable oil pressure and a visually (through the scope) acceptably clean oil screen.

The long period of storage also required the gas tank to be drained, cleaned, and refilled, and the gas pump and filter to be replaced.

That was last year, and I haven't had a problem with the engine since. (Other problems, yes, but not the engine.) Needless to say, I replace the oil frequently in this engine now.

I hope this info helps someone out there. :-)

BTW, the mechanic who fixed my Explorer is Ralph at Kansas Ave Auto Center in Modesto, CA, which is near where I had been storing the vehicle.

Posted on Jan 13, 2010

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: know how to change the oil pump in my 1997 chevrolet SILVERADO?

The oil pump is in the the oil pan so you will need a new oil pan gasket and some form a gasket as well to put the pan back on, because you will have to take it off, you will see the oil pump a soon as you take the pan off, it will have a tube connecting to the pick up screen and to the block, remove bolts from the block and remove oil pump. be prepared the primming rod will probably come out too. itll need to go back of course, make sure seated in correctly because the primming rod runs off the cam. make sure the surface area for the oil pump gasket is clean before reinstalling new oil pump same goes for oil pan. after everything back together refill oil. It is best to test the oil pump before starting for your engine. the best way to do this is to remove the distrubuter if it has one if it has electronic ignition it will have a cap where the distributer went remove that and you will see the top end of the primming rod, fit appropriate socket on the primming rod and use a battery gun to spin, look inside oil fill cap and make sure you see oil flow or oil pressure on your gage if equiped, CAREFULL!!!!!! make sure the socket on battery gun has no way of falling off, or you will have to remove oil pan again to retrieve it.
Another way to prime pump is to disable igniton main power like remove the coil wire, or main power wire for electronic igniton so you can turn the motor over with out it starting, once again turn it over until you know you have oil pressure with the gage or through oil fill cap. put ignition back together start the car and once again confirm oil pressure. If every thing looks good your done Good luck

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

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2 Answers

How to change oil pump in 1997 Ford Explorer

Pull the Engine and Transmission as a Unit, separate them, put Engine on an engine stand, swivel up-side down, pull the oil pan, remove the oil strainer/pick up & tube, Where the end of the tube comes from s your oil pump and it is pretty self explanatory how it unbolts. When installing the new pump make sure line up the pump drive properly and follow original steps in reverse.

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There is no reason you cannot go 6000 miles between oil changes. I have a Ford explorer with 250000 miles and I changed the oil every 10000 miles. I never had any engine trouble - it is still running very well.

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1997 ford explorer V6. Engine was idling to warm up, went in house for 10 minutes. Came out engine smoking knocking like crazy. Shut off engine and opened hood, oil was sprayed all over engine oil...

this sounds like the engine oil cooler hose was leaking.

DO NOT run the engine again until you fill with oil.

start the engine and look for the hose that is leaking.

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Is synthetic oil good for 1997 ford explorer v8 138,000?

Synthetic is recommended for higher mileage vehicles. It provides less wear. However, If you have been using conventional up to this point without any issues, then it is your choice to switch. Me personally, I reccomend Castrol GTX 10W30. I use this in all 4 of my vehicles, including my 1970 Mustang. The Original engine has never been rebuilt. The 5W30 I really do not recommend using in summer time because it is thinner and when you turn off the vehicle the oil drains off the pistons so when you fire it up they are dry momentarily until the pump can pump the oil back into the cylinders.
Synthetic is good but not necessary. Proper maintenance goes a lot further than Synthetic oil.

Jul 07, 2009 | 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

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Oil change light does not go off after oil change

Might need to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer.

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Changing oil pump

your best bet is to invest in a repair manual such as haynes or chilton
Fix Your Ford With Your Own Hands Fix Your Ford With Your Own Hands

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Oil pressure

does the engine make any raddle noise when you start the engine. if not may just need oil presure sensor.

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