Question about 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
SOURCE: STARTER - 1993 cutlass ciera
According to Chilton's, and assuming you have the 3300 V-6, it won't be fun. The first instruction is to drain the air conditioning system, and remove the front manifold. The starter is between the engine and the radiator. The deal breaker for me is the A/C draining/refill. If anyone knows of a way to avoid the A/C drain, let me know. Otherwise, I may just preemptively replace mine before my buddy runs low on R-12.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
I can elaborate on this also. I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Ciera with 157k miles.
The blower motor had been losing it's bearings for a while and really lost them about a week ago. I bought a new blower motor; installed it (which can be done by loosening the power steering assembly by removing a couple lower bolts underneath the power steering resevoir. One is a "double hex bolt" which a nut, then 3 ground wires, then another hex head which will remove this bolt.) Also you need to remove a stabilizer bar the is connecting between the p/s pump and the rear cylinder head. Removing these bolts should allow the power steering assembly to be moved toward the front of the car, giving enough clearance to remove the blower motor.
We installed the new blower motor, tested it, it worked, but the relay started clicking like crazy. It was the second relay from the left on my car; you can tell which one is for the blower motor by lookign at the color of the wire going into the blower motor and looking beneath the relay panel for the same colored wire (on my car it was purple).
We put it all back together, went to test it again and it wasnt working. We then went and bought a new relay, which restored the blower to working condition. 2 minutes after we left again, it blew the relay. We then exchanged the obviously faulty blower motor, and purchased a new relay, and the car was restored to 100% functional.
In this person's case, it sounds like they just need a relay, but I just wanted to elaborate to help get this information more readily available. I feel like it would have helped me if I had it before I tried this repair. (which we got down to about a 15 minute job after the 3 times we had to do it)
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
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Posted on Feb 04, 2009
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