Question about 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

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Low compression on no 5 no blue smoke clean water. What could be the problem?

Posted by Anonymous on

2 Answers

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 20,706 Answers

Is #3 low too? post all compression #'s PSI so we can see them.
which engine the V6,
pull valve cover, left.
hand turn or start crank it and make sure the cam lobes operate
the #5 valves, and they all move same amount.
a valve can stick open for many reasons, all it takes a look !

  1. it just stuck , try cleaners at stim and try to free it?
  2. broken valve spring.
  3. missing keepers on said springs.
  4. HLA jammed open
  5. as above seat or burned valve, or bent, or sucked.
  6. a cracked piston, or head. or cylinder wall.
  7. the rod snapped. to piston and it don't move. (look down spark hole yet for signs;? or bits floating there?
  8. blown head gasket (very likely)
  9. collapsed rings. does compression hit 170 if you use oil in cylinder 5, 1oz of oil.

Posted on Apr 24, 2015

Testimonial: "A little history on this vehicle. I purchased from my uncle because of this issue. A mechanic did the dry compression test and I was told that all but #5 had around 180. I think #5 was around 90 not sure. The mechanic did not do a wet test (oil in cylinder) after the dry. Not having a compression tester or an OBD scanner I just squirted Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder hoping that a sticky valve was the problem and that it would be freed. Well it wasn't that simple and I know it will require more testing etc. With all of your possible reasons it now allows me to eliminate step by step from the simple to the not so simple. I haven't tried to work on cars since the 80's and much has changed. Short of taking it to the shop for repairs I thought I give it a go. I will take the time to try some of your suggestions first. Thank you Entropy_slayer. I can't find too much info searching the web or youtube as I hoped but this seems like a good source."

  • 2 more comments 
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    _-__-___-_ Apr 30, 2015

    good ! nah the 80's engines work the same. only spark and fueling are magic, !the "otto cycle" engine is still there, and same causes. (compression failure is covered in every engine repair book in print, for 100 years) not much in online
    for basics, it's called. unless you wade through a ton of myths, lies, and dog chasing tail deals.

    The piston rises in the cylinder, the rings seal and valves seal (timed right) and if the head gasket is not blown or cranks in (any) of those parts. it makes full compression.
    Evan cam lobe failure on #5 can be it.
    just looking at IT ,you can see damage...
    easy.

    if the wet test fails the problem is very bad. (rings or cracks there)

    but we always hope for a simple bad head gasket to a cracked block or head.
    also heads warp, if overheated, so we always check the head for that (simple test) and pressure check it.
    and examine the cylinder walls with bright lights for cracks.
    i have $30 bore scope that can find issues too. in the bore.

    one can even , check valve action head still on. they can be man handled.
    we check springs, and then force them open
    by hand, and they snap back hard and loud
    CLUNK. if not they are sticking,
    can be unstuck with solvents and flexing them by hand . this is tricky in twin cam head. (may take cam removal)

    they here and avoid youtube rumors
    http://www.aa1car.com/


    the vacuum gauge test , if bouncing will be burned intake valve.

    basics are,
    engine vacuum good
    engine compression good
    CAT not melted cause above to be wrong x 6
    the engine must pump air, on all 6 cylinders and most compress the gasses fully.
    then spark
    then fueling

    when doing #5 did the throttle blocked open
    device fail?
    did you repeat by the book? 1 time?

    case in point.
    i do 1, 3, and cell phone rings.
    and the kids knock my throttle blocking device loose. and 5 fails.
    or bad luck?

    1: battery charged,
    2: throttle blocked open!
    3: all spark plugs out.
    4: take readings.

    only this works, for full RPM.
    and wait for the needle to stop advancing.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Apr 30, 2015

    http://www.aa1car.com/

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Apr 30, 2015

    try here,

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Apr 30, 2015

    edit rings to valves type. i cant edit, comments.

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 42,120 Answers

Two problems come to mind
bent valve
loose valve seat insert
hydraulic follower jammed holding the valve of the seat
what ever ,it means that the head will have to come off to fix

Posted on Apr 24, 2015

Testimonial: "Yikes I was hoping not to read this but am not surprised. Thank you."

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My rx7 blows blue whight smoke


Hi Ross,

As a rule:
  • Black Smoke = Unburnt Fuel, incomplete combustion, bad mix
  • Blue Smoke = Burning Oil
  • White Smoke = Water Vapor, Water getting where it shouldn't be.
White smoke is common in cold weather when you first start your vehicle. It's from condensation. But it should stop as the engine warms up. If it doesn't, the moisture is from another source.

Questions:

  1. Are the smoke episodes accompanied by a loss of power?
  2. Was your coolant level low before you changed the coolant?
  3. Did it overheat? Badly?
I'm leaning toward a partial failure of the head gasket. Here is some info, things to look for and tests to confirm.

Symptoms:
  • Uncontained compression in one or more cylinders = lack of power
  • Coolant seeping into cylinders through the gasket breach creates white smoke
  • Oil seeping into cylinders creates blue smoke
Things to look for:
  • Coolant levels low. As the coolant is burned off, you'll notice the levels are lower
  • Oil in the coolant. If oil is present in the radiator, it's coming from the engine. Another indicator of a failed head gasket. Only a confirmation though, lack of oil does not rule out the possibility.
  • Water in the oil. Pull the oil dipstick. Is it milky and frothy, like it's been whipped? If so coolant is getting into the oil. Again, an indicator, not a confirmation of a blown head gasket.
  • Is the oil level dropping?
The quickest, easiest and (most importantly) cheapest confirmation of this is to run a compression test on each cylinder. I'm surprised your mechanic didn't suggest it.

The test should show high and fairly close compression (100psi or more) on all cylinders. If any of them are significantly lower, something is allowing the gasses to escape. Since piston ring failures would produce blue smoke, not white, that leaves the head gasket.

If you feel comfortable doing it yourself, testers are available at any auto parts store for under $30.00. If you don't, any shop can do it in under half an hour.

All this is to pin point the problem. Then you know what you are dealing with.

Comment me back with your findings.
Mike

Feb 03, 2009 | 1987 Mazda RX-7

2 Answers

When i run my rpms up around 3500to 5500 and let off it blows a could of bule whight smoke it didon do it till i changed the coolent


Hi Ross,

I noticed a duplicate post, If you are having problems with the system, add a comment at the bottom of the screen.

As a rule:
  • Black Smoke = Unburnt Fuel, incomplete combustion, bad mix
  • Blue Smoke = Burning Oil
  • White Smoke = Water Vapor, Water getting where it shouldn't be.
White smoke is common in cold weather when you first start your vehicle. It's from condensation. But it should stop as the engine warms up. If it doesn't, the moisture is from another source.

Questions:

  1. Are the smoke episodes accompanied by a loss of power?
  2. Was your coolant level low before you changed the coolant?
  3. Did it overheat? Badly?
I'm leaning toward a partial failure of the head gasket. Here is some info, things to look for and tests to confirm.

Symptoms:
  • Uncontained compression in one or more cylinders = lack of power
  • Coolant seeping into cylinders through the gasket breach creates white smoke
  • Oil seeping into cylinders creates blue smoke
Things to look for:
  • Coolant levels low. As the coolant is burned off, you'll notice the levels are lower
  • Oil in the coolant. If oil is present in the radiator, it's coming from the engine. Another indicator of a failed head gasket. Only a confirmation though, lack of oil does not rule out the possibility.
  • Water in the oil. Pull the oil dipstick. Is it milky and frothy, like it's been whipped? If so coolant is getting into the oil. Again, an indicator, not a confirmation of a blown head gasket.
  • Is the oil level dropping?
The quickest, easiest and (most importantly) cheapest confirmation of this is to run a compression test on each cylinder. I'm surprised your mechanic didn't suggest it.

The test should show high and fairly close compression (100psi or more) on all cylinders. If any of them are significantly lower, something is allowing the gasses to escape. Since piston ring failures would produce blue smoke, not white, that leaves the head gasket.

If you feel comfortable doing it yourself, testers are available at any auto parts store for under $30.00. If you don't, any shop can do it in under half an hour.

All this is to pin point the problem. Then you know what you are dealing with.

Comment me back with your findings.
Mike

Feb 03, 2009 | 1987 Mazda RX-7

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