Question about 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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7.5 2wd changed all brake lines hoses new calipers getting a lot of air from rear line pedial is hard until I start truck goes down slow pump 3 times good petal

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Yes, you have to make sure the lines are free of air first. Then if you pump it up and it goes down to the floor slowly. Replace the master cylinder. A seal is blown in it.

Posted on Apr 23, 2015

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You still have air in the lines, start from the farthest rear wheel and do the bleed down again, a mighty vac vacuum pump would help a lot !

Posted on Apr 23, 2015

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2 Answers

I changed rear rotors and pads, now when I push the brake it goes to the floor then builds pressure as I push it. What could be causing this?


If the brake pedal was ok prior to changing the brakes that shouldnt be the problem unless you have disconnected or opened a brake line. If the rear calipers are the wind in type and the park brake is part of the caliper, most likely the pistons are not lined up correctly with the caliper housing

Apr 05, 2015 | 2004 Chrysler Sebring

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Its a 2012 fieasta change the servo .marster cilnder and the peddel still goes to the floor


Bleed the complete system starting with the rear passenger caliper if you don't have a bleed box get someone to help you and have them pump the brakes three to five times and hold it down then open the little 3/8 bleeder located on the inner side of the caliper the brake pedal will go to the floor but make sure they do not release the pedal until you close the bleeder back up then repeat until there is no air in the lines then move to the rear driver side repeat steps above then front passenger side then front driver side. hope this helps Jeff J&D services

May 15, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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All of a sudden i have spongy brakes on my 92 f 250. changed master cyl and booster. and rubber brake hoses. still spongy and nothing is leaking.brakes went from being good to spongy in one...


Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.

Apr 30, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

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How do i replace the front calipers on my 2001 4runner,done lots of pad and rotor replacement but never any front calipers?thx.


Pretend like you're changing the rotors but don't take the rotors off. Instead, take the hydraulic line off the caliper using a line wrench. Have the new caliper ready and quickly hook the line up and tighten. Put the new caliper back on. The caliper comes with the piston collapsed, so very little bleeding is needed. Crack the bleeder open and see if it will gravity bleed. If nothing comes out, have someone push the pedal down while you loosen and then tighten the bleeder. Have them hold it down until you tighten to avoid drawing air into the caliper on the backstroke. Watch the reservoir carefully as the piston comes out--keep it full so you don't draw air into the lines. Repeat the pushing of the pedal and opening and closing the bleeder until no air comes out. Then continue pumping the pedal until the piston has closed the gap between the pads and rotor. Go to the other side and repeat. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Apr 27, 2011 | 2000 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

Changed brake pads on my 94 dodge stealth and now i can't get the brakes bled


If you have a soft brake pedal and have to push hard to slow down or pump the brakes to slow down then you probably have air in the brake lines from the last brake pad replacement. The brakes need to be bled with this method: Use 1/8 inch 2 foot long hose from parts store and attach the hose from bleeder valve ball on the brake caliper to a bottle partially filled with brake fluid. The end of the hose in the bottle must be submerged in the fluid in the bottle. With a second person holding the brake pedal to the floor, slowly turn bleeder valve counter clockwise (loosen tiny bit) with wrench and watch for dirty brake fluid to create bubbles in the bottle. When bubbles start, quickly tighten bleeder valve back to tight. Second person should lift foot, pump and then while valve is still tight should push the pedal to the floor again and THEN you again open bleeder valve slowly turning counter clockwise and watch for bubbles. Repeat until no more bubbles can be created in the bottle where the hose is submerged. Move to next caliper and repeat. For a firm brake pedal you will need to repeat this on all four calipers.

Jul 24, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Stealth

1 Answer

I changed the rear brakes on my Jetta tdi and now the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. It does stop eventually and the parking brakes work. But it stops poorly


you probably have air in the line after brakes are done refill resevoir with brake fluid then the caliper has a little screw for bleeding brakes you must pump brakes 2-3 times leave your foot down until you have someone else open the screw on the caliper to release air or sometimes brake fluid close screw and repeat until the petal gets hard again do it to both rear brakes see if this works..

Mar 21, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

3 Answers

I have a slow brake fluid loss. I think it may from the master cylinder. Are there any seals in the lines that go into the master cylinder unit.


no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad

Sep 24, 2009 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

3 Answers

Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale


do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Jul 20, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Poor breaks


When you open the breaking system you allow air to enter the break lines and that will cause squishy or weak breaks. You have too "bleed" the air out of the lines now. The way to do this is to have someone help you with this process. They will need to pump the break pedal until the break pedal is stiff and hold pressure on the pedal while you open the valve on the caliper or wheel cylinder(disc or drum) until you have a steady stream of fluid with no air. To ensure you get all the air out you need to start from the passenger rear tire,then driver rear, pass. front, driver front. Make sure you slip one end of a hose over the bleeder valve and the other end in a container so that you don't allow the break fluid to contaminate the new brakes,

Dec 03, 2008 | 1995 Chrysler New Yorker

1 Answer

Brake problem in pedal


you did'nt say why you changed the rf brake hose, but i'm assuming it was leaking, check to make sure the new one is not leaking and there is no other leaks in the system, this includes the other 3 calipers and hoses, the rear hose in between the rear hard line on the frame to the rear hard line on the rear axle. if there is still air in the right side line then the left side would be doing all the work and may cause your abs to kick in on the left side if it is attempting to lock up. this may be the noises you are hearing. if you still have power brakes after you shut the engine off, (you should be able to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times with the engine off before the pedal becomes hard) then the booster is ok. if it has a swooshing sound inside the car, (hard to describe that sound on a keyboard), then you may have a leak in the seal on the brake pedal side of the booster. brake master cylinder sounds like it is bypassing. if it still goes to the floor after you rebleed then replace the master cylinder. if a brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it is possible to ruin the cylinder and cause it to bypass, this is caused by rust or corrosion, the seals on the plunger are compromised letting brake fluid leak past. any other questions please let me know. thanks

Sep 17, 2008 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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