Question about Nissan Cars & Trucks
Did you take something loose and forgot to reconnect? Maybe you bumped an electrical connector? You didn't take a battery cable loose, did you? If you did, then check your security system, where applicable.
Are you saying it cranks good but won't start or it won't even crank. If it won't even crank, I'd have to check starter wiring circuit. Go from there.
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a cable that attaches to the inside door latch release handle. The plastic that retains this cable is most likely broken. I have seen this before. If the retainer is not holding the cable sheath correctly, the entire cable moves when the handle is pulled and does not release the door latch.
Remove the door panel and inspect this cable. You will see 2 cables (one is for the door lock). If the plastic is broken, you will need a new interior handle assembly.
Hope this is helpful!!
Nissan Scope Technician- 10+ years experience in Nissan dealership
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
Dear Guest: If you have some reasonable mechanical aptitude, it is a simple task on this engine to do.
The thermostat is located near the front to the engine (the side closest to the belts) and on the side where the radiator is.
Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will have found the thermostat housing.
1. Make sure the engine is cool before doing this job.
2. Get a drain pan and drain the coolant from the radiator. The drain **** for the radiator is located at the bottom of the radiator. Some have an end which can be turned without tools and others require a flat screw driver to unscrew the fitting from the bottom of the radiator. Make sure you remove the radiator cap, as it will drain much faster. Once drained, put the drain **** back into the radiator. Be careful and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT! It will snap off in the radiator!
3. Release the hose clamp which secures the hose to the thermostat housing and then grasp the hose at the neck where the clamp was and try to rotate the hose on the housing. DO NOT try to just pull the hose off. Break it loose first by rotating it on the housing. If it is stuck, get a small screw driver and carefully, slide it in between the hose and the housing, working it around until you can rotate the hose. At that point you can remove the hose and push it off to the side or take it loose at the radiator as well. CAUTION!!!!! the radiator tanks are plastic and will break if you are not careful!
4. There are 3 bolts which retain the housing to the cylinder head.
Typically the bolt head size is a 10mm. Using a 10mm socket, rotate the bolts in a counter clockwise direction, removing all three bolts. There are some that did use a 12 mm bolt head size. Most of the time the housing will just come loose. Sometimes, it will stick. If so, a light tap will break it loose. Pay attention as to how the thermostat is positioned in the cylinder head prior to removing it. Most of the time it will pop out easily or you can easily pry it out with a small screw driver. CAUTION!!!!
Do not damage the mating surface where the gasket seals.
Carefully clean the old gasket off. A single edge razor works fine.
5. The thermostat has a top and a bottom. If you look closely, you will see a place in the outer parameter of the thermostat where there is a small hole, often with a little metal tab which projects through the other side and is able to jiggle some. This is a small bleeder to help bleed the air trapped in the system when it is installed. This part of the thermostat must be at the 12:00 position.
Additionally, make sure the part with the hoop is sticking out toward you. The cylinder head has been machined to allow the thermostat to fit flush with it when installed properly.
6. Clean the old gasket from the thermostat housing. Nissan utilizes a liquid gasket sealer (silicon) which you apply a "SMALL" bead around the water inlet (the cylinder head side), let the sealer skin lightly and then put the housing in place making sure that the thermostat had remained seated during the installation. If it had come loose and you try to tighten the bolts, you will crack the thermostat housing.
7. When you tighten the thermostat housing bolts, there is a torque specification however most people don't have torque wrenches which measure in inch pounds. For those who have a torque wrench, 10mm bolts:56.4-66 inch lbs, 12mm bolts 12-14 ft lbs.
I have found that the easiest way to keep from over tightening the bolts is to grab the ratchet from the head and tighten the bolts because you don't have the leverage at that point.
8. Let the silicon dry for 10 minutes and and then fill the system back up with coolant. Reattach the hose and clamp being careful not to over tighten the hose clamp.
If you are replacing it, not more than a 50/50 mix. There is no special bleeding procedure Nissan has for this car. Just fill the radiator with coolant, turn the heater inside the car to the heat position to allow coolant flow into it as well, because it too is part of the cooling system in terms of coolant capacity. I usually fill the radiator until it shows 1/2 way up the tank. As the engine warms up,prior to the thermostat opening, more often than not, the coolant level will rise dramatically before it drops. Once the thermostats has opened top the system off, put the cap on and let it run for a while and watch for leaks. Take the car on a short loop and then recheck for leaks again. If everything has gone well, the temperature will read normal and no coolant will be leaking.
Hopefully this should be sufficient to answer your question.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
frajogag: First off, be aware that these bolts are "torque to yield" bolts (streach bolts). What this means is that instead of torqueing the head bolts to a specific torque specification, they are torqued down to a set spec and then tightened by rotating the bolts a certain angle, like 90 degrees. and all of them are turned the same amount.
This means that the shanks of the bolts must be checked to make sure they are not too thin (or the bolt has already stretched beyond limits and is prone to snap if used)
Here is how you check the bolts. Measure the bolt using a micrometer, at the base, or within the first 13mm from the end where it threads in. Then go to about 10mm before the threads end heading toward the top of the bolt. There should not be more than a 0.23mm (.0091 inch) or less difference or the bolt should be discarded.
Torque the bolts down to 98.1Nm ( 72.ft lb)
Looking at the head from the side, so you are looking at the full length from side to side, I will number the head bolts in this fashion.
#1 & 2 are directly in front of you and in the center of the cylinder head crossing it width wise.
#3&4 are to the left of #1&2, / #5&6 are to the right of #1&2
#7&8 are to the left of #3&4 / #9$10 are to the right of #5&6
Now, you have the sequence.
After the initial pull, back off all the bolts in the same sequence and then retorque them to 36 Nm ( 28 ft lb)
Using a torque angle wrench or having the ability to accurately judge turning angles. Rotate (clockwise) to a 75 degree angle. do this to all the bolts using the sequence I had provided.
Rotate the bolts (clockwise) 75 degrees again on all bolts in the same sequence. The proceedure is complete!
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
All you really need is a good set of spark plugs, this car has coil packs so no plug wires distributor caps etc.....Just remove the coil packs and install your plugs and your done. Good luck.
Posted on May 31, 2009
begin troubleshoot your car to the fuel system, does the fuel goes to fuel rail, check the fuel pressure, does it pressurized? if no pressure check the fuel pump or fuel itslf,check the fuse of injectors and coils, also the coil ground, if all ok, try to remove one spark plug wire and observe the high voltage drop while crunking the engine, if spark is ok and fuel is ok, it engine timing problem, if no spark check ignition system voltage on and grounding, if voltage ok, but no spark, check the crankshop position sensor and camshaft sensor.
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
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