Question about 1998 Dodge Durango
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here is a diagram of you vehicle. Good Luck please leave a FIX YA comment if I fixed ya. http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2004/dodge/durango/2004_dodge_durango_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
It seems that because the diagram for the fuse codes aren't located in the owners manual, it would be a dealer item only. One possible solution is to buy an assortment of fuses.. maybe (15) switch them out 1 by one.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I had the same problem and fixed it using the following steps. I am not an expert or even very mechanically inclined, just desperate to get this fixed without spending any money. This was done on a 1996 Dodge Caravan. Similar steps should apply to a number of years of the Caravans and Voyagers.
Two people will make removing the panel easier. To do this, you'll need a phillips screwdriver, penetrating lubricant, and pliers.
First, if you cannot open the door at all: There is a small plastic disc plugging a hole just above the latch on the inside. Pop out that disk, and use a screwdriver to lift the latch mechanism. It should not take a great deal of force to move the latch. When the latch moves, push the door and it should open.
1. Remove the plastic panel on the inside of the van. You need to remove the handle and several screws on the perimeter of the door.
2. Disconnect the interior door lights by gently pulling the wiring harness (two of these).
3. Looking at the door from the interior, there is a small electronic plunger mechanism on the right side with an "accordion" (this is the electric lock). There is a rod that goes from the to the middle of the door, just above the lock mechanism. Another rod goes from the key lock to the latch. This rod, threaded on one end, snaps into a small bracket on the latch. It may need to be snapped back in. There may also be a rubbery/tar-like sticker near the locking mechanisms that can be removed (it can interfere with some of the moving parts).
4. Manually operate the plunger on the electric lock several times using pliers. Mine was extremely stiff. It should move the rod at least a full inch.
5. Spray lubricant on the latch, the back of the key lock, and the back of the exterior handle. Also spray lubricant into the key lock itself (where the key goes). Do NOT spray lubricant on the electronic lock mechanism or plunger.
6. Just above the latch, there is a small hole (only about 1/8" around). Carefully and liberally spray lubricant into that hole in every direction (this is where the rods from the key lock, electric lock, and latch meet). There is a white plastic post that comes out through another nearby hole. Spray lubricant liberally into that hole, too.
7. Again, manually operate the plunger on the electric lock several times using pliers. It should be considerably smoother to operate.
8. Put your key into the key lock and pull it out several times.
9. Spray lubricant into the key lock again, then carefully operate the lock with the key. If it didn't work or was stiff before, it should operate much more smoothly. Operate the electric locks several times.
10. When operating the lock, you should see the plunger on the electric lock move to its extents (at least an inch). Watch it when using a key and using the electric lock.
11. Check the movements of the rod and plunger when operating the lock, and the movements of the latch when operating the handle (when unlocked). If anything is still really stiff, use some more lubricant and operate the lock and handle again.
12. When reassembling the door panel, remember to plug in the two wiring harnesses for the interior lights.
I hope this helps!
Posted on May 09, 2009
SOURCE: rear lift gate on 2004
OK, it could be the wiring to the solenoid actuator for the door lock, or the solenoid actuator for the door lock itself that needs to be replaced.
Does the door unlock manually, somehow?
Posted on Oct 08, 2010
SOURCE: Need a diagram for the
NOTE: To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed and installed improperly and then rewired. The new wiring arrangement would maintain the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes of the current plug wire locations and orientation of the distributor cap.
5.2L Engine 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
5.9L Engine Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Posted on Oct 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 24, 2015 | 2001 Dodge Durango
Apr 30, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Durango
Oct 12, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Durango
Jun 12, 2011 | 2004 Dodge Durango
Oct 08, 2010 | Dodge Durango Cars & Trucks
Aug 14, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Durango
May 28, 2009 | 2003 Ford E150
Feb 01, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Durango
Oct 15, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Durango
25 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: