Question about Acura Cars & Trucks
If you have the l model with the 2.7 liter they have a 7.5 amp no.5 fuse in the under dash fuse box that could be blown all models except the LS use analog gauges if the fuse isn't blown its probably the sending unit for the gauge or a bad ground,also your reminder light does it work.As for the windows usually if all are defective except for driver i have seen usually the master switch for driver side but check the front fuse no.3 is passenger front no.2 is pass rear and no.4 is driver rear if this doesnt help i will be more than happy to help just msg back
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
Most likely, both problems are not related. Check the fuse box in the car and in the engine compartment, look for blown fuses. The windows are probably the switches, especially if they are on the drivers door. It's odd that just one window works, so that's the place to look. Check the wiring from the switches back to the connector. If you know how to use a volt meter, check each window that isn't working has power to the switch, if it does, check the power going to each window motor, if you have power to the motor when you actuate the switch, then the motor is bad. AND, yes, you can have 3 window motors go bad at the same time, especially if the car has been in water, or you had a serious voltage overload in that circuit. As far as the gas gauge, check for a blown fuse, power to the gauge itself and then, power to the connector that comes off the gas tank. It can only be the gauge itself, a broken wire, or the gas tank sender, good luck!
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Acura Legend Sedan 3.2 lts 1994
replace de ignition module first.. if still wont start good chances is the crank sensor is located behind the timing belt.. my 94 legend use to do the same thing until i replace the crank sensor.. and also if u can afford i will suggest u to replace the main fuel relay too... all this is after u are 100 pcnt sure that ur fuel pump is working....
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
If you lean into the engine compartment from the passenger side to look at the pully side of the alternator, you will find a bolt (10mm I think) sort of behind the alternator and to the back left. It is sticking straight up, and you can use a nut driver or ratchet to turn it counter clockwise to loosen tension and lower the alternator. But you have to loosen the locking bolt first. When you look at the pully side of the alternator (once the plastic shroud is removed to expose the belt and pully) you will see 2 large bolts (one on the bottom right and one on the bottom left) on the alternator that hold it in place. The one on the bottom left (on the same side as the tension adjusting bolt) is the locking bolt. You will see that there is a track for it to slide along as the alternator swings up and down. If you loosen this bolt, the alternator should be free to swing down on the left side when you adjust the adjusting bolt. However, it is common for the alternator to stick even after you have loosened the locking bolt and . When I adjusted mine, I had to remove the bolt on the bottom right because my alternator had been in there so long is was stuck in place. (The alternator is supposed to pivot on the right bolt, but sometimes it sticks.)
Posted on May 02, 2009
Driver windows tend to work more due to its on the driver side and tend to fail before others. New window switch is fairly cheap, the motor I would get it from a junk yard or you can get both from a junk yard. check all fuse and relay first. test the switch or replace it before you start tearing the door cover off. working and replacing the door motor is not an easy task on the ledgend.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
That sounds like a dead battery. The ticking sound is the relay (a type of switch) which enables power to the starter motor when you turn the key. If the battery is weak, the relay will click, but there is not enough power to turn the starter motor.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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