Question about Cars & Trucks
I installed new master cylinder and brake pads and E-brake is not stuck.
Replace the rear brake hose/s. They deteriorate on the inside and clog up. Not letting the calipers or cylinders to release. I recommend replacing the front and rear.
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
From what you are saying there could be nothing wrong with it
I asume you have disk rear and hopefully when you did the pads you eighter replaced the rotors or had them turned.
The fact is brakes get hot it takes a lot of force per sq in on the pads aganist that rotor to stop the weight of the vehicle .
With drums on the rear and disk on the front the front do about 70% but disk all around its 50 /50 .
I would jack the rear wheels up 1 at a time and see if they spin freely .If they do their isn't any brake drag .The bigger problem with brakes is not enough force to the wheel not to much .
Just a new thought
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
Are the rear brakes drum or disc
is it necessary to remove the hub to do ant work
I am thinking out of adjustment hand brakes or over tensioned wheel bearings or if drums then shoes have been incorrectly fitted or adjusted
long guess is a faulty proportioning valve in the lines to the rear brakes
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
Ive had this problem on a friends car. you have to bleed all of the fluid from all 4 breaks until clean fluid flows. You have moisture in the fluid in one of the calipers, when you go down the road the acceptable drag on the breaks causes the moisture to expand and turn to steam that causes them to drag even more. His was so bad that it would lock up the breaks and his flex hoses were bulging from the pressure. Do the breaks seem to get harder to press when this happens? Never use break fluid that is open for more than a month. It hold moisture and turns cloudy.
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 2004 SAAB 93 and just finished replacing the brake pads and rotors yesterday. On the piston itself you should have two little notches. You can either or a GM rotor reset tool that will push into the two little notches and push against the piston while rotating it clock wise. Or the way that I did it was to take a C clamp and put the caliper back on the car. Clamp it on the back of the caliper to the front of the caliper so it will remain stationary. Then take a pair of needle nose pliers and rotate the two notches clockwise while pushing into the caliper. It will take some strength but you should be able to push them in. Be sure that you spray the boot around the piston when some WD 40 so it does not crack and or break during the process. If you have any additional questions about this feel free to email me.
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
SOURCE: 1999 Pontiac Bonneville SE 3800 ABS Brake pedal will eventually reach floor after stopping while hold car stopped. Brake pads replaced less than 5000 miles ago. Fluid level at max and does not drop. O
I would replace the MASTER CYLINDER. BLEED AIR from master cylinder BEFORE INSTALLATION. Hope this helps
Posted on May 18, 2009
SOURCE: bad brakes on gmc suburban,
Gravity bleed your brakes starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. No pweddle pumping. I Fill M/C and leave cover off. Then open the bleeder and watch what is coming out. Uou can see bubbles. When the fluid drips steady and without bubbles, cole and do the same to the other three. Don't let the master cykinder get low because thr fluid level helps move the fluid and air through the lines.Periodically tap the break lone with your wrench to keep everything moving.. When sll bleeders drip clean and steady. Make sore your rear brakes are adjusted to barely touch the drum. Then top off the master cylinder, cap it and give yourself a "break". :)
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 Chevy 1500 pickup 2wd
One of the wheel cylinders is leaking, pulling air back into brake system and it's going back to the4 master cylinder. Look for brake fluid leaking at one of the wheel cylinders, that's where the problem is.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Testimonial: "The problem was resolved through other means"
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