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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have to remove the spark plugs cables and remove the four nuts that you see when the cables are removed.
When the four nuts are removed, simply raise the valuve cover. When replacing the gasket, make sure you get the gromets as well. Those sometimes get worn or crack since they are more exposed than the value cover gasket. Make sure that you clean the cover from oil and replace the gasket with no use of silicon.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
It's not terribly hard, easier if it's a four cylinder than a six. You can judge for yourself, look under the hood, If you have a plastic engine cover in there, take it off, it's just snapped on and usual plastic. The valve covers are rectangular metal covers the length of the engine and perhaps 4" wide. You have one if a four, and two if a six. The four cylinder design is right in th middle, the six are two on each side.
Now look at the wires and hoses and how many need to be moved to get at the six or so fasteners that hold it down. This is where most of the time is. It's just a matter of getting the fasterners loose and removing the cover. Scrap off the old gasket, which probably isn't going to be much. Use for locktite silcon sealer put on new gasket fastner cover back down.
I usually can do this in about an hour. Therefore answer to your question is $60-80 labor depending where you have it done. The gaskets are probably $25. You can check this online at one of many parts suppliers. One I like is Rockauto.
There you go.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
SOURCE: replace valve cover gasket
I have the same problem on a 2003 Town & Country. The cover for the front 3 cylinders is quite straight forward, but in order to do the rear cylinders I believe you are going to have to remove the cowling below the windshield. You will need a gear puller to remover the windshield wipers first, then remove the cowling. Than should give you more room to work. It's still not going to be easy, but it sure beats paying hundreds of $$$$ in labor charges.
Posted on May 04, 2009
the valve cover, requiring the removal of 4 to eight bolts, easy enough for the novice to remove and replace.
is the uppermost piece of the engine under all the hose's and wire's that run a muck. the head gasket on the other hand requires the removal of all that can be seen as you peer under the hood.if it is just an oil leak it should not require a head gasket .
my suggestion would be to use an engine degreaser
such as gunk or Castor oil brand follow there instructions.and then drive the vehicle 20 minutes or so and look for fresh oil to determine exactly where the leak is coming from
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
SOURCE: White smoke and the smell
You have stated two problems. Coming to second first. Smell of burning rubber. in the car rubber is only at two places where it can burn, The tyres, unlikely as you have not commented upon your driving habits. Some people like to rev the engine so much before take off that the tyres go burning for the first few hundred meters. And then there is rubber on the wires and cables. You have to check the wires for any heat while the engine is running.
Coming to the first now. White smoke is generally of unburnt fiel and not oil. Oil alwayd give black smoke and that is the indication you get when the exhaust is giving black smoke. That means that the engine is consuming oil. if it is white then that indicates that the engine is cold and burning more gas/diesel. Is your a diesel vehicle?? But as you say it from under the hood. And that too behind the engine block. May be that the gasket is leaking from somewhere. If you could check the engine oil level for a few days early in the morning before starting the engine. If the level drops and the exhaust tail pipe does not blacken your finger when you rub it in it would mean that the oil is being burnt. Now what I suggest is that with the engine running and hand brakes on, go under the car with hood open and try to locate the source of the smoke. I am sure you would be able to locate it.
Then we talk again.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
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