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I changed a new clutch cylinder upper and lower portion of my van but still its clutch pressure lost when not in use for a half day. what is the best solution for this problem?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 4,977 Answers

Sounds like there is still air in the system or air is being drawn in somewhere. if this happened after replacement and was not there before replacement for a different problem then it was created when the replacement parts were installed. it could be a seal causing it.

Posted on Apr 22, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 chevy camaro 3.4manual 5 speed

You may want to read bleeding instruction at this link, it may shed some light.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b886d

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

  • 2187 Answers

SOURCE: clutch adjustment

Its either the clutch fluid is wrong or not at the correct levels or it has not been bled correctly.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

Jta91
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: i cant get pressure to my clutch pedal in my 1995

You cannot bleed these clutch hydraulics. They are meant to be a pre-bled sealed unit that you buy. You should never replace just the slave or the master. Buy them both and replace them as one unit which is already bled from the factory. Otherwise you will experience what you are describing.

Make sure you install the slave cylinder (into the transmission hole) first and then the master cylinder (pedal side) next and do not hook up the pedal until everything is installed.

If you take the slave out with the pedal attached it will extend the rod and ruin the hydraulics rendering them useless.

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Clutch pedal has lost pressure

yo it could just be out of fluid!

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

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1 Answer

Why my clutch cylinder lost its pressure when not in use for 12hours but once i adjust the piston of the clucth cylinder the pressure come back again


Hi this is a common problem with new or old hydraulic systems.If the hydraulic system has no leakages, no rubber reinforced hoses swelling under pressure. It will be correct to replace clutch master and slave cylinder .Do observe the condition of clutch and pressure plate, This seems to be a case of internal pressure loss .

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Own a 1988 Ford F250 Custom. A few days ago I noticed that when the truck was put into gear, even on 1st, it took a bit for any power to kick in. Just the other night it just quit changing gears entirely....


i take it that in your statement " it took a bit for the power to kick in" you were referring to the clutch slipping or not engaging correctly
pressing the pedal and not going anywhere indicates a compensating port in the clutch master cylinder to be blocked
the best and cheapest fix here is a new master cylinder and slave cylinder as both are near their service life end
replace the hydraulics first as it is the cheapest fix first and then if it turns out to be the pressure plate , you will need new hydraulics to handle the increase pressure of the new pressure plate
all of your statement tend to master cylinder problems

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I have 1997 Toyota tacoma v6 4x4 I replaced clutch drove next day with no problems got in following and now won't engage/ disengage from gears. if turn off I can put in first or reverse but struggles....


Check the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder for proper operation... chances are the slave is bad.. I think this is located on the passenger side of the tranny.. you may have lost fluid during the install.. or introduced air into the system.

If you needed a new clutch.. it was probably time to at least flush that system and or replace the slave cylinder.. also check the spring on the clutch pedal..

I hope you replaced the throw out bearing and pressure plate when replacing the clutch.. I suspect you did.

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Can a shade tree mechanic change the clutch in '97 mitsubishi 3000?


Removal (3000GT AWD)
1. Remove air cleaner cover, air hoses and vacuum pipe. Remove air cleaner, intake hose, battery, battery
tray and washer tank.
2. Disconnect transaxle control cables and speedometer cable. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove both inner fender splash shields. Remove clutch tube bracket and disconnect clutch release
cylinder (including clutch damper assembly on FWD models) and wire aside. Support transaxle assembly
with jack and disconnect upper transaxle mount. Remove mount, bracket, plug and stoppers.
4. Remove transaxle assembly upper coupling bolts. Disconnect tie rod ends and lower arm ball joints.
Remove right support member, starter cover (if equipped) and starter.
5. Remove left side bearing bracket mounting bolts and pry left axle shaft from transaxle. Wire left axle
shaft and inner shaft assembly aside. Pry right axle shaft from transaxle and wire aside.
6. Remove front bank side and rear bank side transaxle stays. Support transaxle assembly with a
transmission jack. Remove transaxle assembly lower coupling bolts and lower transaxle from vehicle.
7. Insert a clutch alining tool to prevent pressure plate and clutch disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate
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