Misfiring so took to Pep Boy, they changed plugs & wires, but started again after a week. Then they swapped ignition coil, clips and a rod in manifold. Good, but check engine came and stayed. Fuel rail press. sensor diagnosed, replaced. Now, 1-2 wks later, won't start, just 'bump'! That's it.
What now ? Pep Boys no good ? I'm worse than BROKE !!!
Check the wiring/harness to make sure it isn't lose at the coil.
Also check the connecting harness at the cam position sensor(it's on top of the water pump).
And, if you have access to basic tools remove one of the spark plug(doesn't matter which) connect it to the plug wire lay it against or on a part of the vehicle or engine which isn't painted.
No spark indicates an ignition related issue, but it's very important that the place you choose on the frame/body or engine has a good connection to ground. If your not sure you can use a multimeter by putting the positive lead at the battery and negative at the point on the vehicle, you should have 12 volts. If not you may need to find a different point.
If you do have spark then it could be a fuel related issue or something else, but one thing at a time.
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Far more likely than a defective camshaft position sensor: bad spark plug wires, fouled spark plugs, or a bad coil pack are the most probably culprits. Also, verify that you haven't developed any vacuum leaks anywhere.
What DTC code(s) are you getting?
You performed a compression test on cylinder #1; did you test cylinder #2?
Compare the readings, if there is a significant difference in compression readings between the two, you may have a bad head gasket, a bad valve, etc.
The bottom line, the problem is internal to the engine.
Locate the ignition coils - they are mounted on the ignition module. Remove the wide connector that goes to the module. You will have to unscrew it first. Spray some WD40 on the connector pins and try to scrub them with a tip of a small screwdriver. Be delicate not to brake or bend anything. Reconnect the connector. Start the engine and see if it still misses.
If it still does, try to touch/move each of the wires that go to the ignition module. BE VERY CAREFUL not to touch any of the moving parts of the engine as you have to do it with engine running.
If it still misses, do the following.
1. Engine off
2. Mark the ignition wires so that you reconnect them later in the same order
3. Locate the coil which gives spark for cyl 1
4. Switch locations of this coil with any of the two remaining coils
5. Reconnect the wires
6. Start the engine
If it now misses on another cylinder, you will have to buy a new coil.
The injector is bad , internal coil when heated shorts out . Feel lucky it's only one injector . It could be like this corvette all injectors Quit when hot ! Test the injector with ohm meter . Chevy Corvette No Start When Hot The Diagnosis
These codes are making me lean towards the ignition coil pack.My stepson's 2001 Sable 3.0 v6 had one cylinder misfiring(5-code P0305),which shares a coil with cylinder 1(code P0301).I diagnosed it by trading wire 1 and 5 at the coil,and the code changed to P0301.You have codes for the two cylinders on the same coil,so this is most likely it.(these codes would also trigger P0300(Multiple Misfires Detected) and P0316(Misfire Detected First 1000 Revs)).
The code should be P0303..cylinder #3 misfire detected. If you have replaced the plugs and wires and the misfire is still there, then the next thing to look at would be the injector for that cylinder. Since your car has a common coil for all six cylinders, I doubt that is the problem. You can also swap two of the plug wires to rule out a bad spark plug wire. Same goes for the plug. If you swap anything just do one thing at a time. If the misfire moves then you can isolate the bad part. Be sure to clear the code each time, before testing.
1. Bad or fouled Spark Plug at #1 Cylinder.
2. Bad or misfiring Wire going from the #1 on the Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil to the #1 Cylinder.
3. Misfiring at the #1 on the Distributor/Electronic Iginition Coil.
a. Unplug the #1 Wire at the #1 on the Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil.
b. Using an Auto electrical testing: Probe, wire and ground clip electrical, stick the Probe into the opening at the #1 Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil. Use the grounding clip - clipped to a portion on the engine.
c. Start the Vehicle and check for rhythmic spark.
d. If there is NOT rhythmic spark, the Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil needs to be replaced.
e. Turn off the engine.
f. If there is rhythmic spark: Reconnect the #1 Wire at #1 on the Distrubutor/Electronic Igntion Coil.
g. Disconnect the #1 Wire from the #1 Spark Plug.
h. Again using an Auto electrical testing: Probe, wire and ground clip. Insert the Probe into the end of the #1 Wire and clip the ground clip onto the engine.
i. Start the engine again.
j. Again Check for rhythmic spark.
k. If there is NOT rhythmic spark the #1 Wire needs to be replaced. (Replace all Wires as a Set).
l. If there is rhythmic spark then the #1 Wire is fine.
m. Turn off the engine,
n. Remove and Inspect the #1 Spark Plug. Clean if necessary and Regap.
o. Reinstall the Spark Plug and reconnect the #1 Wire.
p. Restart the engine.
q, If the code reappears:
r. Replace all the Spark Plugs.
Let me know if this helped or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.Com.
Amelia, we just bought one off a lease 5 weeks ago (purchased from a dealer). We are having the same symptoms, suddenly, as you describe.
Took it back to the dealership. After a bit of drama, they agreed to foot the repair bill ($1000). It was a broken distributer cap and wiring which should have been replaced before it was resold to us. What a pain.