Question about Cars & Trucks
A lot of parts. No mention of year make model or mileage. What about the distributor cap & rotor? In the old days a heavy rain could cause cross fire in an old cap due to it becoming porous or dusted with carbon etched off of the center post. Wear is faster if the distributor is worn ie. greater than 150,000 miles. Look down the center of the distributor, if you see metal shavings...replace the distributor. If a module keeps you from seeing down the center of the distributor, remove it. I'm shooting in the dark without more information.
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
Everything you replaced. Did it have the seal on the plug? Did the seal stick in the part replaced? You still have the old parts? First thing I would check. After that I would throw a hose on the top and see where the water was going. Some Fords have problems with fuse boxes. year make and model?
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
Posted on May 02, 2010
Check to see if you have compression on all cylinders. If you don't, replace the timing chain/belt. If you do check the ignition relay and fuse panel for blown fuses.
Posted on Oct 11, 2010
Maybe the antitheft system. Read thru this link
Posted on May 17, 2012
SOURCE: 96 jeep grand cherokee 4.0
I ve put coil pickup' crank sensor' coil still no power to fuse block on finder' no fire to plugs ' don't here fuel pump, this is on one another one blows fuse to the firing ever time I turn the switch on
Posted on Dec 09, 2013
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