Question about 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

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02 Ford Explorer sporttrac xlt. New rotors calipers pads and master cylinder. Bled it twice stream looks good new fluid. One day breaks stick then the next no breaks Break light on Proportional valve?

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For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?

Posted on Apr 21, 2015

  • Justin Shively
    Justin Shively Apr 21, 2015

    Thanks pal I think your right. Dang Fords


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Did you clean an lube slide pins for the calipers , new hard wear ? The brake light comes on when the fluid gets low in the master cylinder or you have the parking brake on !
The brake master cylinder fluid level warning switch is an integral part of the brake master cylinder reservoir. It consists of a float containing a magnet and a reed switch mounted in the bottom of the brake master cylinder reservoir.
When the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir gets to a predetermined level, the floating magnet actuates the reed switch, causing the red brake warning indicator to illuminate. Loss of brake fluid will cause this system to activate.
The brake master cylinder is a dual-piston type.
The brake master cylinder is assisted by a power brake booster. For additional information, refer to Section 206-07 .
The following conditions are considered normal and not indications that the brake master cylinder is in need of repair or replacement:

  • Low brake fluid level detected without signs of leakage. This condition is caused by displacement of brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) into the disc brake calipers/rear disc brake calipers to compensate for normal brake wear. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AB or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
  • A momentary or slight squirt of brake fluid inside the brake master cylinder reservoir upon application of the brake pedal.
  • A trace of brake fluid found on the outside of the power brake booster below the brake master cylinder mounting flange. This condition results from the lubricating action of the brake master cylinder wiping seal.
  • Condition Possible Sources Action
    • Red brake warning indicator always on
    • Brake fluid level.
    • FILL the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line.
    • Instrument cluster.
    • Circuitry.
    • Parking brake.
    • Go To Pinpoint Test A .
    Do you also have ABS light lit ?

Posted on Apr 21, 2015


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SOURCE: 96 suburban steering wheel pulls to left when breakes are applied

Sounds ridiculous maybe, but have you by any chance tried braking hard, at lower speed on a gravel road, just to see if you can pick up on which wheel is grabbing first. I recall a rear wheel cylinder partially seized with slight leak on rear of one of my vehicles, causing front end to whip over on braking. Only after hitting them hard at slower speed on gravel road, was I able to pick up on it.

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SOURCE: 1998 FORD F150 XLT 2WD - No Brakes when truck is running

We could have really went round and round for that one .. wouldn't you say .. but hey glad you were able to resolve it and that all is well . .but anyways thanks for using FixYa and we are here to help .. don't hesitate to look us up again .. Crayz

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SOURCE: Spongy brakes

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

Posted on Mar 29, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Brakes are still spongy after changing the pads, one caliper, and master cylinder. bled front brakes.

I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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SOURCE: change rear break pads on 2000 Buick. Cannot

There's a special tool required to compress the rear caliper pistons. You may want to rent the tool. If you look at the piston you'll see one or two notches. The special tool has nipples to fit these notches. The caliper piston will have to be compressed with the tool and the notches will have to be placed in the o'clock and 6 o'clock for the brake pads to slide over the rotor. If you rent the special tool have the renter show you how to use it.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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If you have bled the new calipers and still get no fluid out of them, I would look at the master cylinder or a blockage in that particular brake line.

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When you pushed the pistons back into the caliper so the new pads fit over the rotors did you look an see how full the master cylinder was ? You did push the pistons in didn't you ? Over flowed from master cylinder ? After replacing pads you didn't pump up the brakes ? The pedal will go to the floor but should pump up . Just replacing pads wouldn't make the master cylinder go out . How was the pedal before your brake job ?

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The best way is to remove the calipers. Undo the mounting bolts but not the fluid line. Using a suitable pry bar, force the pistons back into the caliper until they reach home. Remove the old pads, clean up the area with a rag and fit the new pads. Guide the caliper back over the rotor being careful to hold the pads away so they clear the rotor, and lower the caliper into position. Refit the mounting bolts and tighten good and tight. The master cylinder may have overflowed so wash around the area to remove the fliud. Check fluid in the master cylinderand pump the pads out against their rotors. NOTE: Its a good idea to tie each caliper up with wire to support it whilst you do the work. This will avoid damaging the fexible hose. Also if you see any seals that are leaking, fit a new caliper repair kit.

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Poor breaks

When you open the breaking system you allow air to enter the break lines and that will cause squishy or weak breaks. You have too "bleed" the air out of the lines now. The way to do this is to have someone help you with this process. They will need to pump the break pedal until the break pedal is stiff and hold pressure on the pedal while you open the valve on the caliper or wheel cylinder(disc or drum) until you have a steady stream of fluid with no air. To ensure you get all the air out you need to start from the passenger rear tire,then driver rear, pass. front, driver front. Make sure you slip one end of a hose over the bleeder valve and the other end in a container so that you don't allow the break fluid to contaminate the new brakes,

Dec 03, 2008 | 1995 Chrysler New Yorker

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Front brakes are sticking on and off on 2005 vibe,when the brakes stick brake pedal becomes hard??both sides start to heat up,calipers seizing?master cylinder problem?or?????

Ok Have you recently replaced the pads? Do they act normal after they cool down? Are the pads in good condition, pads that are so worn that the caliper pistons come out beond their normal limit may stick there due to excessively worn pads. If so make sure they are at least factory grade quality Good are bendix, the only thing that can cause your symptoms is a bad master cylinder because it affects BOTH front calipers equally if it was a caliper it is likely to affect only ONE. Let me ask you this happens after driving in heavy traffic or after along drive?
If So there have been countless cases of boiling brake fluid, Old Brake Fluid gathers moisture and its boiling point is lowered, Fluch out ALL the old brake fluid and have new put it.

also is there any chance even the slightest chance that something other than brake fluid even a drop or two is enough to do damage. has been added to the master cylinder at any time? If so you need to replace EVERY PART IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM INCLUDING THE ABS CONTROLLER THAT HAS ANY RUBBER PIECES IN IT CALIPERS HOSES WHEEL CYLINDERS,MASTER CYLINDER just for your information.
I believe you have a bad master cylinder but do not buy a rebuilt one only bran new and preferably from the dealer.
Please contact me if you need more help and would you give me a good rating if you feel my information is helpful.
Thank you ,Randy

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