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2007 Toyota Prius, driving on freeway, everything shut off, coasted to a stop, could still roll down windows and use blinkers and locks- one day later and unable to use these functions. What's wrong?

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  • Cass Henderson Apr 21, 2015

    Unable to use ALL functions. Car won't turn on or anything.

    -Cass

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  • Toyota Master
  • 22,156 Answers

Dont quote me here as no idea on this newer car but i suspect that the alternator has failed and the circuits is such that it will not run on the battery alone ,only reason i say this is because the old renault twingo and some models of the clio do the same ,if the alternator fails then car car will stop and you cannot restart it no matter how thick your jumper leads are .

Posted on Apr 21, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Driver side window

I had the same problem. There is a cable mechanism inside the door that lifts the window. The cable broke and had to be replaced.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Saturn LS1 2000 - driver side window locked down unable to close.

It's the switch.
Put your fingers into the leather shifter boot at the base and feel under the rim to pop the outside ring that holds the faux wood trim at the base of the boot up and out. (The piece is faux wood on an LS2, it may just be colored plastic on an LS1) You may need to do this twice, on each side of the boot, so that the entire piece of trim and the boot pops up and out. The leather boot should still be connected to the trim, it will pop out as a unit.
Once it is out, you can reach into the housing and feel the window switch unit from inside the housing. There is a spring clip on the upper and lower ends of the switch unit, press in the spring clip and pop it up one end at a time. The unit is now out but still attached to the power. I have never unclipped the wire harness but it looks easily doable.
IF YOU ARE REMOVING THIS BECAUSE THE SWITCH IS STICKY you probably DON'T need a new switch - you can spray some contact cleaner in the ports at the side of the unit and underneath the switch, this will probably fix your problem, at least if you have ever spilled a soda anywhere near the switch. 

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Nissan Altima windows roll down by themselves w/no key in

You need a body control computer, which controls the windows, door locks and other items. The new computer will have to be programed by a good imports shop or Nissan dealer.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 toyota avalon and the master window

switch contacts may be worn or burnt, replace switch asembly

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Suburban Power Windows won't roll all the way down

sounds like the alignment on the windows is bad just my thoughts

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

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I ask a question on what is the drive cycle to reset obd for toyota2005 rav4


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle
  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
  • Step Four: More City Driving
    • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
    • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
    • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
    Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
    • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
    • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.

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2 Answers

My 2007 toyota prius dash lights are out???


Have you checked the dimmer control, could be turned all the way down. check your owners manuel for instructions on how to turn up the lights.

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tou should still be under warranty. best way to pinpoint the problem is to start with a diagnostic scan by an experienced tech with the proper scan tool. it will be worth the diag fee.

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your car is a hybrid and has a regeneration system which uses braking to drive mg2 which is recharging the battery.

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What's your answer on this-Mr. or Ms. High Ranker???

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