Question about GMC Sierra 1500
Pump works when bypass relay. relay is good. Key on , pump never comes on for the 10 sec prime. Also all warning lights come on , except the check engine soon
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1985 Volvo 240 no fuel no spark
well first the fuel pump relay is bad, that is easily replaced. next you have no spark. the first thing you do is take the cap off the distributerand crank the engine. if it spins that tell syou thyat at least the tang or gear on the shaft of the distributor is ok and not broken. next thing is remove the #1 plug and use a 1/4 drive extension 6" long and turn the crank by hand until the #1 cylinder is top dead center(put the extension in the hole of head where the plug was and you should feel the top of the piston also make sure you can feel the top of the piston with half the extension this way you don't drop it in the cylinder with the piston at TDC(top dead center) the rotor of the distributor should be pointed at the #1 firing position. IF it does not that means your timing is off and you need to retime it by taking off timing cover and either replacing the belt/chain or gears. now if you do not have a distributor and you have a coil pack there could be only 2 things that won't give spark. either a bad coil or your altenater is bad(the battery is responsible for starting not running the vehicle like alot of people assume. the altenator energizes the coil which inturngives spark. hope this helps you please rate this thanks
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.
Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Your ECU is what acctivates your fuel pump realy. Put the key on the run possition and pull the ecu fuse for a few seconds and reinstall it ans it should accivate your realy for 5 seconds, Good luck.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
SOURCE: i CANNOT GET ANY POWER
have you check for power to the main fuel relay ,it is near the ECM. it also poers the ECM up. if no power is coming from it then the ECM will not ground the secondary fuel relay to transfer power back to the fuel pump.
Posted on Aug 13, 2011
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