A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Front cylinders are #2-4-6...rears are #1-3-5...try to replace one at a time to eliminate confusing the firing order...your parts dealer can confirm the firing order...I think it is 1-2-3-4-5-6...The 2.8 V-6 can be tilted forward by using the extra hole on the upper motor mounts to ease access to the rear...the 3.1 uses the same bracket...after tilting the motor forward...use the bolt in the extra hole for access...hope this helps.
very carfuly should have some spark plug wire pliers and be carful
not to pull wire out of the boot lot of time ive had too take the wish/bone loose that's the eng mount at the front of the car on top then take front eng mount loose and roll the eng forward then you can get to the back plugs with no problem....
If you have the 3.0 liter you can rep,ce the air cleaner housing from the back side of the engine and get to the rear spark plugs.
The other two v-6 options the rear plugs need to be done from underneath the vehicle.
Some people will remove the two front motor mounts (dog bones) and with the car in park push the car forward to rotate the engine and apply the parking brake to hold the car. (Carefull not too far and damage the radiator) If you can get your eng to rock forward, that gives you more room in the rear to remove the back three plugs -this is the easiest way. Or with alot of patience and small hands (because there just isn't much room behind the engine) a swivel and an extension.
I would recomend that you replace the plug wires at the same time because the boots usually break when you remove them and with the engine rotated forward they are easier to get at.
When re-installing the new plugs, it is important to make sure you get several turns on the plug before putting a wrench on it. The last thing you want to do is cross thread a spark plug. The new plugs should almost bottom out before requiring a wrench.
Dont skimp on plugs and wires, pay the extra $$ for premium and save yourself some headaches and performance problems.
The three front ones are simple and the three back ones are challenging. There are two ways to replacing the rear spark plugs on the Montana.
1. If your arms are long enough and you have longs extensions with a spark plug socket with a swivel build in to it, you can get to the plugs from under the Montana.
2. You can get to the rear plugs buy disconnecting the two dog bone engine mounts in front of the engine and tilting the engine forward. You can do this by placing the parking brakes on and disconnecting the dog bone, once that is done. Place your foot on the brakes and take the parking brakes off and push the Montana forward till the engine tilts forward enough to give you the room you need to get your arms over the top of the engine with the extensions and spark plug socket. Make sure you place the parking brakes back on and put a block at the rear of the engine to ensure the Montana will not move back and cause you to loose your arm or head.
Note that you need to keep the transmission in park when tilting the engine and that your going to have to replace the spark plug wires and do everything by touch to replace the rear spark plugs.
Thank you for using Fixya and use platinum spark plugs to give you 100,000 miles of service. Good luck and be safe.
Need to remove upper intake manifold to reach valve cover close to firewall. 1) The location of spark plugs 456 are under the plastic shield in front of the engine. It takes an 8mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the shield once the shield is removed you will see a coil for each spark plug. Use the 8mm socket and remove the coil and rubber boots. You will now see the spark plug (note there are not any spark plug wires). 2) The location of spark plugs 123 are located to the rear of the eng. You have to remove the air intake manifold in order to get to the spark plus. Remove the throttle wire then remove the other items on top of the intake manifold.
There are a few ways to doing this, and it takes time and a few band aids. You can remove the alternator to give you some room to access the rear spark plug with an extension and swivel spark plug socket. You can also get to the plugs from under neath if you have a ramp and long arm, an extension and swivel spark plug socket will help. You may have to use a 2x4 to wedge the engine to give you some room if you have larger arms. The other way is to tilt the engine forward by disconnecting the two top engine mounts. First replace the 3 front plugs and wire one at a time so you don't cross them. After you have changed the front plugs have a friend help you. Make sure the parking brakes are on and disconnect the two top engine mounts, release the parking brakes and let the transmission in park. Push the van forward slowly to tilt the engine forward far enough to give you room with out pushing it to far in to the radiator. Put the parking brakes on again to keep the van from rolling back and place a block of wood behind and in front of the rear wheels. Don't want to lose an arm. Replace the rear plugs with extensions and a swivel spark plug socket. Note, your going to have to replace the spark plug wire since the rear ones are really hard to remove and pulling on then will destroy them, not worth the headache trying to save them. Use platinum plugs so you can get 100.000 miles before you have to change them again so use anti-seize on the plugs so you can remove them again. Good luck and hope this helps, I personally go from under the van.
To access you rear plugs, you need to disconnect the front top engine mount, then put the vehicle in neutral and pull the engine forward (with a large pry bar) and lock the engine to the mount base using the engine mount bolt. Don't forget to chock your wheels so the vehicle doesn't roll away. And really, the job isn't difficult at all.
this gets a little tricky but it not that bad. the plugs in the front of the eng are pretty east just remove the eng cover, then the coil pack. U will need a spark plug socket and a extension to get the plugs out. now the rear plugs is where is gets tricky. pretty much the same, remove the coil packs held in by a 10mm bolt the not u have Way less room to fit ur tool in. I use a small 3/8 ratchet, 3" or smaller locking ext, and a swivle spark plug socket. if u dont have the right tools getting to the rear plugs is next to impossible without removing the intake