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My voicenote not going through why,its 3.2mb - Cars & Trucks

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We have no idea what you are referring to here .

Posted on Apr 21, 2015

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The heat in my 2007 ford edge only blows hot air out of the passenger side, while the driver side gets cold air


Have it checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes .
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module DTC Chart NOTE: Some PCM DTCs may inhibit air conditioning (A/C) operation. If any PCM DTCs are retrieved, diagnose those first. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. DTC Description Action to Take B1251 A/C In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor Open Circuit Go To Pinpoint Test A . B1253 A/C In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor Circuit Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test A . B1255 A/C Ambient Temperature Sensor Open Circuit Go To Pinpoint Test B . B1257 A/C Ambient Temperature Sensor Circuit Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test B . B2427 RH A/C Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test C . B2426 RH A/C Solar Radiation Sensor Open Circuit Go To Pinpoint Test C . B2795 LH A/C Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test C . B2796 LH A/C Solar Radiation Sensor Open Circuit Go To Pinpoint Test C . B2014 Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit Open Go To Pinpoint Test D . B1947 Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test D . B295A LH Blend Door Potentiometer Feedback Circuit Open Go To Pinpoint Test F . B295B LH Blend Door Potentiometer Feedback Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test F . B226C LH Blend Door Motor Stalled Go To Pinpoint Test F . B295C RH Blend Door Potentiometer Feedback Circuit Open Go To Pinpoint Test F . B295D RH Blend Door Potentiometer Feedback Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test F . B226D RH Blend Door Motor Stalled Go To Pinpoint Test F . B295E Mode Door Potentiometer Feedback Circuit Open Go To Pinpoint Test F . B295F Mode Door Potentiometer Feedback Short to Ground Go To Pinpoint Test F . B226E Mode Door Motor Stalled Go To Pinpoint Test F .
Need to use a professional scan tool to check these codes !

Dec 28, 2016 | 2007 Ford Edge

1 Answer

2007 Silverado Classic 4x4 crew cab after parking the vehicle the headlights turn off but not the brake and back up lights How do I repair this problem?


DTC B2550
When the body control module (BCM) receives a signal requesting to illuminate the backup lamps, battery voltage is sent directly from the BCM through the backup lamp supply voltage circuit to the backup lamps.
Voltage for the backup lamp supply voltage circuit as well as the courtesy lamp supply voltage circuit is from the left instrument panel fuse block TBC 2B 15-amp fuse directly through the BCM to these circuits.

Brake lights or do you mean tail lights ?

Stop Lamps Always On
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle?
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle
2
Depress the brake pedal.
Does the system operate normally?
YES - Go to Testing for Electrical Intermittents
No - Go to Step 3
3
Disconnect the stop lamp switch.
Do the brake lamps go out?
YES - Go to Step 6
No - Go to Step 4
4
Remove the CHMSL fuse.
Do the brake lamps go out?
Yes - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 5
5
Remove the STOP fuse.
Do the brake lamps go out?
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 9
6
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 10
7
Repair the short to voltage in the CHMSL supply voltage circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs.
Did you complete the repair?
YES - Go to Step 11
--
8
Repair the short to voltage in the stop lamp switch signal circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 11
--
9
Repair the short to voltage in the stop lamp supply voltage circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 11
--
10
Replace the stop lamp switch. Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 11
--
11
Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
System OK
Go to Step 3

Dec 09, 2016 | Chevrolet Silverado Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My lights will not shut off on my pontiac grand prix 03


Headlamp Low or High Beams Always On

1

Was the Lighting System Diagnostic System check performed?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems

2

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  2. Turn the headlamp switch to the OFF position.
Are any of the headlamps on?
Go to Step 3
Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems

3

Disconnect the headlamp switch.
Are the headlamps on?
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 8

4

Disconnect the multifunction turn signal switch.
Are the headlamps on?
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 5

5

Test for a short to battery positive voltage in the headlamp switch signal circuit. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES Go to Step 10
NO Go to Step 7

6

Test for a short to battery positive voltage in the headlamp supply voltage circuit. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES Go to Step 10
NO Go to Step 9

7

Replace the multifunction turn signal switch. Refer to Turn Signal Multifunction Switch Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
Did you complete the replacement?
YES Go to Step 10

8

Replace the headlamp switch. Refer to Headlamp Switch Replacement .
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 10

9

Replace the underhood fuse block. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 10
--

10

Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
System OK
Go to Step 2

Jun 21, 2016 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I want to take out the high beem fuse for a 2003 buick regal... I lost the car manual


Two fuses HDLP L fuse #36 15amp & HDLP R fuse #32 15amp ,located in the under hood fuse / relay box. One is for Left - low an high beams an the other is for right side low an high beams . What's wrong , no high beams ?
Headlamps Inoperative - High Beams

1

Did you perform the Lighting System Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems

2

  1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
  2. Turn the headlamp switch to the HEAD position.
  3. Place the headlamp dimmer switch in the high beam position.
Are the high beam headlamps operating properly?
Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
yes Go to Step 3


Is only one high beam headlamp inoperative?
yes Go to Step 7
Go to Step 4

4

Place the headlamp dimmer switch in the flash to pass position.
Do the high beam headlamps operate in the flash to pass position?
Go to Step 13 yes
Go to Step 5 no

5

Place the headlamp dimmer switch in the high beam position.
Does the high beam indicator illuminate?
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 6

6

Test for a high resistance, an open or a short to battery positive voltage in the high beam signal circuit of the headlamp dimmer switch. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 13

7

  1. Disconnect the inoperative headlamp.
  2. Using a test lamp connected to ground, probe the battery positive voltage circuit of the inoperative high beam headlamp.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 9

8

Connect a test lamp between the headlamp high beam signal circuit and the battery positive voltage circuit of the inoperative high beam headlamp.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 10

9

Test for a high resistance or an open in the battery positive voltage circuit of the inoperative headlamp. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 12

10

Test for a high resistance or an open in the headlamp high beam signal circuit of the inoperative high beam headlamp. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 12

11

Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the inoperative headlamp. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 14

12

Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the fuse block - underhood. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 15

13

Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the headlamp dimmer switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 16

14

Replace the inoperative headlamp. Refer to Headlamp Assembly or Headlamp Bulb and/or Cornering, Sidemarker, Park, Turn Signal Bulb Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 17
--

15

Replace the fuse block - underhood. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 17
--

16

Replace the headlamp dimmer switch. Refer to Turn Signal Multifunction Switch Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 17
--

17

Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
System OK
Go to Step 2

Jan 07, 2016 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 Cadillac Eldorado ,overheating changed thermostat , overflow cap ,no white smoke coming from exhaust.hot blowing from heater


Are the cooling fans coming on ? Go under the hood in the engine compartment , with the vehicle running have some one turn on the A/C , do you see and or hear the cooling fans come on ? Could be the coolant temperature gauge is bad ! How many miles on the vehicle ? Ever have water pump replaced ?

1

Check for a loss of system pressure.
Is there a loss of system pressure?
--
Go to Step 2 yes
Go to Step 3 no

2

Inspect and repair any faulty hose connections.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 3 yes
System OK

3

Check for low coolant protection (-37?°C/-34?°F).
Is there low coolant protection (-37?°C/-34?°F)?
--
Go to Step 4 yes
Go to Step 5 no

4

Test solution. Replace the coolant if necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 5 yes
System OK

5

Check the water pump belt for low tension.
Is the water pump belt tension too low?
--
Go to Step 6 yes
Go to Step 7 no

6

Replace the water pump belt tensioner.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 7 yes
System OK

7

Check for an inoperative thermostat bypass.
Is the thermostat bypass inoperative?
--
Go to Step 8 yes
Go to Step 9 no

8

Replace the bypass.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 9 yes
System OK

9

Check the water pump.
Is the water pump inoperative?
--
Go to Step 10 yes
Go to Step 11 no

10

Replace the water pump.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 11 yes
System OK

11

Check the radiator fins for obstruction.
Are the radiator fins obstructed?
--
Go to Step 12 yes
Go to Step 13 no

12

Inspect and clean the radiator fans.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 13 yes
System OK

13

Check the cooling system passage for obstruction.
Is the cooling system passage blocked?
--
Go to Step 14 yes
Go to Step 15 no

14

Inspect and flush the system. Reroute or replace the hose if necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 15 yes
System OK

15

Check the water pump belt for damage.
Is the water pump belt damaged?
--
Go to Step 16 yes
Go to Step 17 no

16

Replace the water pump belt.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to step 17 yes
System OK

17

Check the cooling fans.
Are the cooling fans inoperative?
--
Go to Step 18 yes
Go to Step 19 no

18

  1. Inspect the electrical connector. Replace if necessary.
  2. Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 19 yes
System OK

19

Check the throttle body circuit flow.
Is the throttle body circuit flow restricted?
--
Go to Step 20
Go to Step 21

20

  1. Inspect the orifice and associated hose. Replace if necessary.
  2. Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to Step 21
System OK

21

Check for a stuck thermostat.
Is the thermostat stuck in the closed position?
--
Go to Step 22
--

22

Replace the thermostat.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
--
System OK

Sep 16, 2015 | 1999 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

My voicenote not going through


usually happens try slow down your voice and pronounce the words slowly and reply me

Apr 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am having trouble with my ac and heat when i turn it on nothing comes out then when i turn it on high it makes a loud click under the passanger side glove box. it is in a big black box to the left of...


Noise from Blower Motor
  1. Inspect the air inlet grille for debris. If the grille has debris, go to step 7. If the grille is clear, go to the next step.
  2. Sit inside the vehicle, close the vehicle doors and windows, turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF, and cycle the blower motor through all of the speeds in order to determine where and when the noise occurs. If there was noise during the blower operation, go to the next step. If there is no noise, go to step 10.
  3. Inspect for excessive vibration at each blower motor speed by feeling the blower case. If there is vibration, go to step 6. If no vibration is present, go to the next step.
  4. Listen to the blower motor at each blower speed. Is the blower motor making a squeaking or chirping noise? If yes, go to step 8. If no noise exists, go to step 10.
  5. Remove the blower motor, and inspect the blower motor and impeller for deposits of foreign material. If there is debris, go to step 7. If there is no debris, go to the next step.
  6. Inspect the blower motor for cracked blades, loose impeller retainer, or improper impeller alignment. If any of these conditions exist, go to step 8. If none of these exist, go to step 9.
  7. Remove the foreign material. When complete, go to the next step.
  8. Replace the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  9. Install the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  10. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the condition has been corrected, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.
Noise from A/C System NOTE: Noise from the A/C system may be heard as squealing, chirping or moaning noises, or as a vibration noise.
  1. Start the engine and ensure the A/C system is ON. If any noise is heard when the system engages, go to the next step. If no noises are heard at this point, go to step 8.
  2. With the engine OFF, inspect the drive belt for excessive wear. If the belt is excessively worn, go to step 17. If the belt is not worn, go to the next step.
  3. Inspect the drive belt tension. If the tension is correct, go to the next step. If the tension is not correct, go to step 18.
  4. Inspect the drive belt for excessive oil coverage. If the belt is covered with oil, go to step 16. If there is no oil present, go to the next step.
  5. Start the engine, ensure the A/C system is ON, and visually inspect the compressor and the clutch. If the compressor appears locked up, go to step 23. If the compressor and clutch appear okay, go to the next step.
  6. If the compressor clutch is slipping, go to step 22. If the clutch is not slipping, go to the next step.
  7. Using a stethoscope, listen to the A/C compressor for any abnormal noise. If noise appears to be caused by the compressor, go to step 14. If the compressor is not the cause of the noise, go to step 9.
  8. Does a moaning noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go the step 11.
  9. Listen to the A/C compressor components and mounting for noise concerns using a stethoscope. Are any of these components loose, damaged or excessively worn? If yes, go to step 19. If no, go to the next step.
  10. Idle the engine and engage the A/C compressor clutch. Using a stethoscope, move around the entire refrigerant plumbing system. Listening for any abnormal noises caused by a component of the A/C system touching another component. Are any of the A/C components grounding out and causing a vibration noise? If yes, go to step 21. If no, go to step 12.
  11. Does a vibration or rattle noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 13.
  12. Does the noise stop when the A/C clutch is disengaged? If yes, go to step 14. If no, go to step 24.
  13. Idle the engine in PARK with the A/C compressor clutch engaged. Using a stethoscope, move around the entire A/C system testing for any abnormal noises caused by a component. Do any of the A/C components cause an abnormal noise? If yes, go to step 20. If no, go to step 24.
  14. Verify that the A/C system is properly charged. If it is properly charged, go to step 25. If not properly charged, go to the next step.
  15. Recharge the A/C system to specification. Is the abnormal compressor noise still present? If yes, go to step 23. If no, go to step 25.
  16. Repair the oil leak. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  17. Replace the drive belt. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  18. Replace the drive belt tensioner. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  19. Repair or replace the A/C compressor mounting component. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  20. Repair or replace the component that is causing the moaning concern as needed. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  21. Correctly route or insulate the A/C component. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  22. Replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  23. Replace the A/C compressor. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
  24. The concern may be caused by an engine related component. If the concern is found and repaired, go to step 25.
  25. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is okay, the repair is complete. If not, repeat the entire procedure.
Noise from the HVAC Module
  1. Start the engine. Cycle through all blower speeds, A/C mode settings and temperature control settings. Determine the type of noise, whether it is a scraping, popping, ticking, clicking, chirping or groaning, or an air rush or whistle. Is a scrape or pop noise evident when selecting modes or temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  2. Is a tick/click, chirping, groaning or scraping noise present, but decreases as blower motor speed is decreased? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  3. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident in all modes but not all temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  4. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident only in defrost or floor mode? If yes, go to step 5. If no, examine for other sounds, repeat step 1.
  5. Remove components as needed to access the HVAC module. When complete, go to the next step.
  6. Inspect the airflow doors for proper operation and the ducts for obstructions or foreign materials. Were any of these conditions found? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  7. Inspect the mode and temperature doors and seals for warping or cracking. Are the doors in normal condition? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  8. Replace the appropriate door and/or seals. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  9. Remove any obstructions or foreign material found. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  10. Install the components removed in step 5. When complete, go to the next step.
  11. Operate the system to verify the repair. If system operates without noise, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.
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Aug 19, 2010 | 2002 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

The rear heater does not heat up when switch is on


Troubleshooting by Symptom Poor Heater System Performance
  1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle. Does the engine reach normal operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 8.
  2. Allow the engine to idle. Select the FLOOR mode. Select the minimum blower speed and the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 6. If no, go to the next step.
  3. Install a thermometer into the center I/P PANEL air outlet. Secure a thermometer to the heater core outlet heater hose. Select the PANEL mode. Select the maximum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Record the temperature at the center I/P PANEL air outlet and at the heater core outlet heater hose. Are the two temperature readings about equal? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 5.
  4. Inspect and repair the cowl, recirc door, and the HVAC module case for cold air leaks. If problems are found and repaired, go to step 9.
  5. Inspect the temperature door operation. Perform any necessary repairs. When repairs are made, go to step 9.
  6. Turn OFF the engine. Backflush the heater core. Start the engine. Select the FLOOR mode and the lowest blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 9.
  7. Replace the heater core. When the repair is complete, go to step 9.
  8. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 9.
  9. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system operates properly, the repair is complete. If the heater still does not work properly, repeat the entire procedure.
Insufficient Defrosting
  1. Start the engine, select the DEFROST mode, and select the maximum blower speed. Does sufficient air flow from the defroster outlets? If yes, go to the next step. If there is insufficient airflow, go to step 9.
  2. Measure the engine operating temperature. Does the engine reach normal operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If the engine does not reach normal operating temperature, go to step 7.
  3. Select the minimum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 10. If the hose temperature is not right, go to the next step.
  4. Test the operation of the A/C compressor clutch. Does the A/C compressor clutch engage? If yes, go to the next step. If the compressor clutch does not engage, go to step 6.
  5. Repair or replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  6. Repair the A/C compressor clutch concern and determine if the A/C system is operating within specifications. If yes, go to step 8. If no, go to step 11.
  7. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  8. Inspect for correct operation of the recirculation door. If the door is operating correctly, go to step 13. If the door is not operating properly, go to step 12.
  9. Repair the air delivery concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  10. Repair the heating concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  11. Repair the A/C performance concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  12. Repair the recirculation door concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  13. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is operating properly, the procedure is complete. If the system is still not providing proper defrosting, repeat the entire test
. Noise from the HVAC Module
  1. Start the engine. Cycle through all blower speeds, A/C mode settings and temperature control settings. Determine the type of noise, whether it is a scraping, popping, ticking, clicking, chirping or groaning, or an air rush or whistle. Is a scrape or pop noise evident when selecting modes or temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  2. Is a tick/click, chirping, groaning or scraping noise present, but decreases as blower motor speed is decreased? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  3. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident in all modes but not all temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  4. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident only in defrost or floor mode? If yes, go to step 5. If no, examine for other sounds, repeat step 1.
  5. Remove the I/P trim pad. When complete, go to the next step.
  6. Inspect the airflow doors for proper operation and the ducts for obstructions or foreign materials. Were any of these conditions found? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  7. Inspect the mode and temperature doors and seals for warping or cracking. Are the doors in normal condition? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  8. Replace the appropriate door and/or seals. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  9. Remove any obstructions or foreign material found. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  10. Install the I/P trim pad. When complete, go to the next step.
  11. Operate the system to verify the repair. If system operates without noise, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.

Jul 21, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

Where is the switch that cuts on the cooling fans on a 2000 grand am with a 3.4 engine


The computer turns on the fan. Based on sensors from the motor.
DTC P0480 - COOLING FAN CIRCUIT

Circuit Description

The cooling fan is controlled by PCM through the fan relay based on inputs from ECT sensor, IAT sensor, A/C selector switch, A/C refrigerant pressure switch and vehicle speed sensor. PCM controls cooling fan by grounding cooling fan control circuit which turns on cooling fan relay.

The fan relay will be commanded on when ECT reaches 223°F (106°C) or greater, A/C is requested or vehicle speed is less than 38 MPH. Cooling fan relay will also be commanded on regardless of vehicle speed when a DTC is set requesting cooling fan to be on, ECT is 304°F (151°C) or greater, or A/C refrigerant pressure is high. Cooling fan may also be commanded on when engine is not running, on certain conditions.

Conditions for setting DTC:

Battery voltage greater than 9.5 volts.

Cooling fan fault line detects a malfunction for 6 seconds.

1. Check cooling system. Ensure coolant level and belt tension are correct. Adjust/repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If no adjustment or repairs were required, go to next step.

2. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using scan tool, check if cooling fan is operating with ECT at less than 209°F (98°C). If cooling fan is off, go to next step. If cooling fan is on, go to step 4).

3. Command cooling fan relay on. If cooling fan operates, go to step 23). If cooling fan does not operate, go to step 5).

4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connector. If cooling fan turns off, go to step 23). If cooling fan does not turn off, go to step 6).

5. Disconnect cooling fan relay harness connector. Using a test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuits in relay harness connector. If test light illuminates on both terminals, go to step 7). If test light does not illuminate on both terminals, go to step icon_cool.gif.

6. Disconnect cooling fan relay harness connector. With test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuit in relay harness connector. If test light illuminates, go to step 9). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 10).

7. Connect a jumper wire between cooling fan relay battery feed and cooling fan battery feed circuit. If cooling fan operates, go to step 11). If cooling fan does not operate, go to step 12).

8. Repair open in battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

9. Repair short to voltage in cooling fan battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

10. Connect test light battery voltage and probe cooling fan control circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 13). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 21).

11. Connect test light to battery voltage and probe cooling fan control circuit. Using scan tool, command cooling fan on. If test light illuminates, go to step 14). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 15).

12. With jumper wire still connected, disconnect cooling fan harness connector. Using test light connected to ground, probe cooling fan battery feed circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 16). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 17).

13. Repair short to ground in cooling fan control circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

14. Check terminals to cooling fan relay. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If terminals are okay, go to step 21).

15. Check cooling fan control circuit for open or poor connection. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If circuit or connection is okay, go to step 22).

16. Connect test light to battery voltage and probe cooling fan ground circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 1icon_cool.gif. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 19).

17. Repair open or poor connection in cooling fan ignition feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

18. Check for poor connections at cooling fan harness connector. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If connections are okay, go to step 20).

19. Repair open or poor connection in cooling fan ground circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

20. Replace cooling fan motor. After replacing cooling and motor, go step 23).

21. Replace cooling fan relay. After replacing relay, go to step 23).

22. Replace PCM. Program replacement PCM using required equipment. After replacing PCM, go to next step.

23. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Command cooling fan on. If cooling fan operates, system is okay. If cooling fan does not operate, repeat step 1).

May 16, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

Passenger window will go up but not down


If you have only two wires going to the motor, I bet that you have power to only one of the two terminals when you put the switch to the down position. The reason is that the other terminal is then connected to ground. This situation reverese when you want the window to go up. If you have power in both wires, you are missing a ground. The relay is a good place to go next.

Good Luck

Feb 09, 2009 | 2002 Saturn L-Series

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