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On my 99 Saturn sl1, why is there no power to the fuel system?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: hazard lights and turn signals won't flash, lights

on most newer cars the fuse block is under rhe hood on one of the fenders. google autorepair for a DIY website autzone has a realy good one that has great info on the electricalsystem. but it is not the fuse it's a little thin called a flasher relay that seems to be your problem. the flasher relay on a saturn is available at most autoparts stores and some might help you locate it and put it in for free.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

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SOURCE: How to fix the heat system in a 97 saturn sl1...

Maybe the heater core is plugged or perhaps you have an air pocket in the cooling system. Try and bleed the cooling system once more.

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

  • 1752 Answers

SOURCE: no heat in 99 saturn sl1 fan blows but little heat

One or more of:

1. Your coolant is low
2. Your thermostat doesn't close and needs to be replaced
3. The valve from the cooling system to the heater core is stuck
4. Your heater core is clogged

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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SOURCE: 99 saturn odometer is not illumated anymore makes

I have a 99 SC, and I found that the backlight itself blew out. In some S Series, that backlight is an LED, which technically have a limitless life. It's more likely that the bulb is a standard incandescent. It can be replaced, and I did so myself for about $3.
All bolts were metric.
All steps below work for the SC, but they might be a little different for yours.
The steps include:
1) Remove screws from the underside of the steering wheel that hold the plastic cover on. Pull it apart as best as you can; it might not entirely come apart.
2) Remove all screws holding the lower panel above the pedals, and remove the panel - be careful, the hood release is mounted in this panel. Also, the electronic diagnostic port screws are also securing this panel.(it is on the SC).
3) Remove the two decorative plastic caps from the center of the dash towards the windshield. Remove the two screws beneath.
4) Remove the top dash cover bezel. You may need a flathead screwdriver to pry the clips loose. Be careful so that you do not damage the bezel.
5) The steering wheel may be in the way of the proper removal of the instrument cluster, and you will need to drop it to the floor. It can be dropped by removing two bolts that hold the column just below the cluster from the bottom. They are larger bolts, but are difficult to see behind some wiring. You may have to disconnect an electrical cable in that vicinity in order to remove the bolts. Once the bolts are out, the wheel easily drops to the floor.
6) Remove the bezel that sits in front of the instrument cluster by prying out the two small plastic retainers in the top.
7) On the back of the instrument cluster, identify the electrical connectors. You will see a single orange tab sticking out of each connector. Remove the tab. Place it in a safe place. Then remove the electrical connectors by pressing carefully on the tabs on the side to release the latch. This takes some patience and can be difficult.
8) Remove the two bolts that hold the instrument cluster in on the lower left and right of the cluster. Then, remove the two bolts in the back of the cluster towards the windshield.
9) The cluster should now easily come out of the dash. Turn the cluster over, and you should see an array of gray knobs, behind each of which is a bulb. All those bulbs are probably fine (unless you've noted other lighting anomalies in your cluster). The knob you must locate is black in color, and is directly behind the odometer. It turns about 1/5th of a rotation counter clockwise, and easily pops out.
10) Take this to the auto store. You can easily pop the light out of the black knob, and replace it with a matching bulb from the lighting department at the auto store. They are very cheap.
11) Reassembly is reverse of assembly. Ensure you tighten the steering wheel bolts tightly, otherwise they will come loose and rattle, potentially the steering wheel unexpectedly on your lap. Regarding other bolts, be careful of over tightening because this can easily cause the bolts to strip their threads.

As a general rule, don't pull too hard on anything. If it's not coming loose, you probably missed a bolt! In some cases, you may have to remove the left end cap where your left driver's vent is. This can be tricky, even though only two bolts hold it in place.

Give yourself plenty of time, and you'll be just fine. My total repair was about two hours.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 saturn sl1 - No power to car with key in or o...

First check your positive battery cable. I have seen, especially on the Saturn, where the positive cable gets corroded through the cable and will not allow any power through it. Also check all fuses in the fuse box under the hood, especially the large green 30 amp fuses. If that does not help then check the fusible link between the starter and the alternator. I have seem some of those fail, but usually the car still had power.

Posted on May 30, 2010

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