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I have a 1979 chevy chevette 1.6 and I'm just trying to figure what all I need to do to remove cam. It has to lobes wore

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There is a line which the DIY end. This job is after this line

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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This is a big job,if anything goes wrong will be bigger problem !!!

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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Worn cam lobes equals metal in the oil and lubricating system
replacing the cam is ok but you will have problems down the track that will require a motor clean out and rebuild unless you clean out all the oil galleys and pump before replacing the cam

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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Don't mess with this its not likely your problem don't create more problems then you already have its probabely a sensor

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

  • Timothy Moore Jr.
    Timothy Moore Jr. Apr 20, 2015

    I have already took the valve covers off and to lobes on the cam are wore. I have 3 more engines to go in it that run fine just wanted to know if it was worth it to just fix this one

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Camshaft is under the valve cover remove the valve cover set to tdc and remove timing belt rocker arms and camshaft retainers pull cam replace in reverse might be a few steps i over looked but you'll figure it out when you get started

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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Take the entire motor apart so suggest you hire a mechanic to do it

Posted on Apr 19, 2015

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1 Answer

Cam specs on a 1967 Pontiac 400, 335 hp


Firebird App. Pontiac Part # Duration @ .050 Degrees Int/Exh Adv Duration Degrees Int/Exh Lobe Center Degrees Int/Exh Lobe Separation Angle Overlap Cam Lift Int/Exh Gross Lift Int/Exh
(1.5:1 Ratio Rocker) Gross Lift Int/Exh
(1.65:1 Ratio Rocker) 1977 TA6.6 549431 274/289 62 .249/.270 .374/.406 .411/.446 1978 TA6.6 10003402 273/289 54 .270/.271 .406/.407 .446/.448 1979 TA6.6 10003402 274/298 55 .249/.270 .374/.406 .411/.446 1967 400, 1968 350, 1973-76 400 w/ AT 9779066(E) OEM 200/210 273/282 106/116 111.25 55 .272/.271 .408/.407 .449/.448 1967-68 400HO w/ MT 9779067(P) OEM 200/213 273/289 113.5 54 .272/.271 .408/.407 .449/.448 1968 400 HO MT & RA-I AT, 1969 350 HO MT, 1969 400 MT, 1970
RA-III MT/AT, 1971-72 455 HO MT 9779068(S)
OEM 212/225 288/302 113/118 116 63 .272/.271 .408/.407 .449/.448 1967 RA MT/AT, 1968 RA-I MT,
(Some 1969 GTO RA-III MT) 9785744 (H)
OEM 224/236 301/313 112/119 115 76 .272/.271 .408/.407 .449/.448 1968-70 RA-II & RA-IV MT/AT 9794041
(T) OEM 230/240 308/320 112/115 114 87 .313/.313 .470/.470 .516/.516 (Stock in RAIV)

Sep 20, 2017 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1984 s10 with a 372 small block chevy in it and it runs fine tell you get on it then it backfires through the cub the timeing is good is it the valves or the cam??


Hello, I would check the lobes on the camshaft. Remove the valve covers and start the engine. Watch every rocker arm and make sure they are all going up and down the same distance as each other. A badly worn cam lobe will show as only traveling up and down a little bit .

Jul 30, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Shakes and misses while accelerating , has a tick to the engine , i already replaced the spark plugs and wires, 1 new coil pack, air filter, fuel filter , new rear rocker arm and push rod. and oil change


Sounds like you still have a problem where the ticking is coming from. You may have to run a compression test on that cylinder you put the rocker arm on, are that side of the motor that is ticking. Could be the cam lobe wore down and need a camshaft.

Mar 09, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

After timing belt failure/head swap, how to tell a 94, 1.9L is at TDC? Marks on flywheel at tdc, pump timed with pin tooling, aside from cam lobes #1 both "up", I'm lost. Turn over by hand but valve...


I'd be careful as you know that is a zero clearance engine. Pull #1 spark plug after you get everything lined back up. Make sure it's all the way up and on the compression stroke. With #1 cam lobe up the valve should be closed and seated in the head. #1 piston should not be interfering with the valve lash. Mark the belt, cam gears, and crank clearly. This way when you pull the belt off, you can line the marks back up at any time and you won't lose any ground. What you can do is to pull the plugs and watch the cam lobes. If you have one going down, and a piston coming up...bingo that's your problem cylinder. Here's a tip from an old timer. Make sure the block timing isn't 180 degrees out. After you mark the belt and gears. Remove the belt and spin the crank 180. This will let you move the cam to close the valve on the problem cylinder while doing it. What you're experiencing is a timing issue. Figure out what that is and then line everything back up and you'll be back on the salt flats in no time. I'd be willing to bet that something is 180 degrees out no more tear down involved, just proper alignment.

Mar 07, 2010 | 1994 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Cams need to be put back after being removed where do they go?


With the number one piston at top dead center the intake cam lobe on the number one cylinder will face 9 o'clock and the exhaust cam lobe on the number one cylinder will face 3 o'clock.

Dec 05, 2009 | 1994 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Hyraulic lifter worn


If it wore down due to lack of lube then there is a very good chance that the cam is worn as well.

Sep 11, 2009 | 1966 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

1978 chevy chevette


Check engine compression. Those engines have a cylinder arrangement that looks like four drinking glasses sitting inside a cardboard box. During overheat, cylinders drop below deck height and do not seal against gasket. Non-technical repair was to draw file the deck 'till it's even with cylinder tops.
Obviously, check all of your work as well, you may have inadvertently knocked something loose that has to do with starting.

Apr 16, 2009 | 1978 Chevrolet Chevette

1 Answer

Need to change timing belt on a 1981 chevy chevette/ set timing


bottom gear go straight up top gear sets about 2oclock thers a small hole in the gear too line up with a hole in the head use a small drill bit too check this!!!!

Apr 16, 2009 | 1983 Chevrolet Chevette

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