Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
Check master cylinder & fluid level put on jack stands and have someone press the pedal while you look for leaks under neath
Posted on Apr 19, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I suspect you may have twisted the hose on re assembly. The other possibility is that the bleed nipple is choked with dirt and rust. Remove it completely and see if the fluid starts to run out. If so replace nipple or clean out.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
Brake rubber flex line could be collapsed,,or kinked,,,i suggest loosening of the line at the master cylinder distribution block (this will give you the ability of loosening off one line at a time,,and have some one push the brake pedal down,,if you see fluid at this point then you know it has to be the line or the caliper.
if you get no pressure from the distribution block then its the master cylinders fault
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: Problem bleeding the brakes
ITS POSS FOR IT TO BE THE WEIGHT VALVE IF THERE ONE FITTED IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE CAR NEAR CENTER OF REAR AXLE YOU SHOULD SEE A BOX WERE THE BOTH SIDES BRAKE PIPES GO TO THIS SHOULD HAVE A ARM ON IT WITH A SPRING.. THIS WORKS WHEN YOU PUT EXSTRA WEIGHT IN BOOT ETC IT ALTERS THE BRAKING POWER TO HELP WITH THE WEIGHT ETC. THIS IS PROB FAULTLY ,, AND NOT LETTING TO FLUID FLOW BACK
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
first of all make sure master cylinder is full of brake fluid.then you crank car leave foot off brake pedal. watch abs light on dash it should turn off in 10 seconds if not have car towed to garage or dealer. they have to use a scanner to scan the abs brakes if abs light turn off in 3 seconds. then starting bleeding from master bleed the lower brake line fitting at the proportional valve followed by the upper brake line fitting. keep eye on brake fluid in mastercylinder dont let run dry.next prime the abs hydralic modulator.connect the bleeder hose to the rear bleeder valve on the modulator.place the other end into a container partially filled with cleab brake fluid.make sure the end of the hose is submerged.open the bleeder valve slowly about 1/2 to 3/4 turn have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in the depressed position. when the flow of fluid ceases close the bleeder valve.repeat process until no air bubbles are present in the fluid.then tighten the bleed valve securely. start bleeding brakes. your bleeding sequence is right rear - left front - left rear - right front.WARNING IF ALL FAILS YOUR BRAKES DONT FEEL SOLID AND FEEL VERY SPONGY.DONT DRIVE CAR. HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP.THEY WILL HAVE TO PRESSURE BLEED YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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