Question about Cars & Trucks
Front end shaking is often related to worn shock absorbers or dampers with something else aggravating the situation. An experienced diagnostician can usually make a fair guess at the cause after taking a drive but for those devoid of those powers it is as well to work systematically and ensure each part that could cause or trigger or aggravate a vibration is as good as it reasonably can be.
It might sound daft but start by jacking up and making sure the front wheels and tyres are round. Some wheels aren't produced to very high standards and have surprising amounts of both radial and axial run-out. Tyres too can develop strange shapes in service and some are oddly-shaped even when new. The smooth ride from new cars has much to do with the equipment used to optimise the wheel and tyre combination so the run-out of one is used to counteract the run-out of the other.
Subsequent tyre replacements cannot be done this way and sometimes a tyre is accidentally fitted in such a way the combined run-out is rather too much for a smooth ride. In cases of vibration it is well to ensure the best and the roundest of the four or five are rebalanced and then fitted to the front.
In cases of vibration start on the outside, the wheels, and work inwards; the lower ball joints and track rod ends and ensure the wheel toe is checked and if required adjusted. Next comes the brakes to ensure the calipers are in good order and the discs or rotors are of constant thickness.
I have never known the outer drive shaft joints to cause vibration but I have known the inner joints to cause some very strange vibrations but in every case once the shaft assembly had been removed it was possible to work the inner joint and discover an intermittent tight spot.
If the shock absorbers are weak the tendency will be for driving to be smooth on a smooth surface but driving over a bump will start a constant vibration that can only be curtailed only by slowing right down or stopping and starting again.
Posted on Apr 20, 2015
CV joints, warped rotor or rim, bad tire.. gosh I wish I could pinpoint it for ya.. Good car though, had one with 186,000 on it before somebody rear ended it.
Posted on Apr 20, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Nor sure about the 2001 model, but on the 97 model, the track bar bolts to the frame on the driver's side. The bolts work loose. Dont merely look at it, go ahead and tighten them. There are two bolts facing upward, at the end lf the track bar. Then there are 3 nuts behind the driver's side front wheel that need to be tight. You dont have to take the wheel off so see them. I tightened all of mine and the death wobble nearly went away ....( 90%)....then I replaced the steering stabilizer ( damper). Hope your 2001 is just as easy !
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
The noise you hear could be the tie rod ends or several other front end items. Can you jack up the front end? If so then turn the wheels from side to side with your hands griping the wheel at the 9 and 3 oclock positions. if you feel freeplay or looseness you have to reach arround and place your hand on the outter tie rod end and see if the play is there or the inner tie rod end at the rack. I worked for saturn for a few yaears and we had ALOT of front struts that made a clunking sound over bumps. Don't forget the lower ball joints could be bad also. Check these by placing your hand on the bottom of the wheel and pushing and pulling on the wheel with it off the ground while checking the tie rod ends. Good Luck, Scott
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
The LX platform consists of the 300, charger and magnum.
They will all have front end noise. It's just a matter of time. This appears to be a poor design and should be recalled.
The front end should be replaced with energy suspension bushings and greasable ball joints.
The front end needs to be inspected, but here are the usual suspects. Most to least
1. Stabilizer bushings to frame. Rattle and bump sound. Not too expensive.
2. Tension struts - radius arm as some may say. Makes a poping noise and moans when driving and turning.
3. Stabilizer end links if loose to touch. Noise over bumps only.
4. Tie rods. Primarily outer. If you can turn them by hand they need changing. These make noise when braking and turning. Inner is more pronounced when steering. May cause road wander.
5. Upper and lower control arm bushings. Creak!
6. Ball Joints. These sound like an orchestra when going up a driveway. The most expensive fix on these cars. Up to 1800.00 dealer cost. They do not press out the old joints. They use a new knuckle.
7. Steering rack... another expensive fix. Moans and hisses.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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